Archive for the ‘Updates’ Category

Exchange of Best Practices Among Conformity Assessment Bodies (CABs)

Posted by Katy Edwards

On 18 April 2024, a training seminar was successfully held in Beijing, China, bringing together representatives from Mongolian and Chinese certification bodies engaged in conformity assessment activities under the SFA standards.

Participants included representatives from the China Classification Society Certification Company (CCSC), the Mongolian branch of the SFA, the NART Training and Research Centre, and Nexus Connect LLC, among others.

Experience of the China Classification Society Certification Company (CCSC)

During the seminar, the China Classification Society Certification Company (CCSC) shared insights into its extensive experience in certification of management systems, products, environmental and occupational health and safety standards, as well as low-carbon certification and standards for animal welfare and environmentally friendly production.

As one of China’s pioneering certification bodies, CCSC has operated for over 30 years in line with international standards. The company manages 32 branch offices, two subsidiaries, five professional centres, and one scientific research institute, offering over 40 types of specialised domestic certification across more than 400 sectors.

Furthermore, CCSC is the only Chinese-financed certification body in China accredited with the IRIS (International Railway Industry Standard), and is also accredited by CNAS, CCAA, and IECRE. The organisation places strong emphasis on scientific research and technological innovation, implementing numerous national and sector-level projects, including three invention patents, 20 utility model patents, and 12 software copyrights.

In addition, CCSC has formulated a quality service strategy aimed at enhancing its brand value on the international market. Since signing a cooperation agreement in 2021, CCSC has worked with the International Cooperation Committee of Animal Welfare (ICCAW) to assess 37,510 livestock farms across regions such as Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, Tibet, and Liaoning, contributing significantly to the healthy and sustainable development of the cashmere sector.

At CCSC, certification is not viewed as a one-time assessment of compliance but as a comprehensive evaluation approach incorporating social responsibility, environmental stewardship, quality management, and innovation within the framework of sustainable development.

Mongolia's Engagement in the Implementation of the SFA Standards

Mr S. Vandandorj, SFA Mongolia’s Country Coordinator, presented the progress of SFA standard implementation in Mongolia. He discussed the certification process and shared experiences from the two independent certification bodies operating in the country: SFCS and Nexus Connect LLC.

Currently, more than 20,000 herders from over 210 cooperatives across 130 soums in 17 provinces have been registered under Mongolia’s SFA framework. Participation in certification is voluntary, involving a three-stage evaluation—internal assessment, training, and conformity assessment—enabling integration into the “SFA Certified” cashmere supply chain.

To support this, the SFA in Mongolia, together with the NART Training and Research Centre, delivers both in-person and online training for cooperative leaders and herders. Ms J. Odgarav, training specialist at the SFA Mongolia office, highlighted the importance of accessibility, noting a shift from monthly virtual sessions to more direct, on-site training in recent years, addressing time and cost challenges.

Ms J. Odgarav also emphasised the vital role of local administrative support, indicating that the team holds meetings with provincial and district leaders to raise awareness of the standard’s significance during field visits.

Launched in 2024, the SFA’s Animal Fibre Standard is a comprehensive framework comprising five principles and 26 chapters, aligned with international practices. The training currently being delivered aims not only to inform but also to prepare cooperatives to effectively implement these standards.

Capacity-Building for Herders: Practical Training Solutions

During the seminar, Ms S. Pagmadulam, Director of the NART Training and Research Centre, explained that the Centre delivers short-term, competency-based vocational training. NART is a certified professional training provider authorised by both the Ministry of Labour and the Ministry of Education in Mongolia.

In collaboration with the Mongolian Employers’ Federation and the Human Development Centre for Occupational Standards, and with support from the SFA, NART delivers training under the “Herder” Occupational Standard. These courses include:

  • Sustainable Pasture Use: Equipping herders with knowledge on responsible livestock farming, carrying capacity, optimal pasture use, and increasing livestock productivity for economic gain.
  • Small Ruminant Breeding: Covering the breeding of Mongolia’s 15 goat breeds, relevant state policies, animal husbandry, selection, and tagging.
  • Small Ruminant Health: Addressing infectious and non-infectious diseases, preventative care, and collaboration with veterinary services.
  • Cashmere Sorting: Teaching herders to sort raw cashmere by colour and carry out primary cleaning to meet processing requirements.
  • Textile Processing Technician Training: Enhancing factory workers’ theoretical and practical skills for improved job performance and versatility.

Training outcomes are assessed by experts from the Ministries of Education and Labour, with successful candidates receiving official certification. Between 2021 and 2024, over 2,000 Mongolian herders received their certified “Herder” qualification.

NART also implements the “Young Herders of the New Century” programme in secondary schools. Supported by SFA Members and Scottish-based brand, Johnstons of Elgin, the programme fosters environmental awareness, traditional knowledge, and responsible citizenship among students.

Processing Industry Standards: SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard (C003)

The SFA’s Clean Fibre Processing Standard (C003) provides a comprehensive framework for aligning Mongolia’s processing sector with international benchmarks.

Ms D. Bat-Enkh, lead certification specialist at Nexus Connect LLC, explained the audit process for implementing this standard. Factories must first register with the SFA, submit a self-assessment report, and then undergo a preliminary review to determine audit readiness. Nexus Connect LLC then conducts third-party audits to verify compliance.

Prior to the audit, factories receive full documentation—plans, expert assignments, and conflict-of-interest declarations—to ensure transparency.

The C003 standard includes nine sections and 88 criteria, covering occupational safety, HR management, supply chain traceability, quality assurance, environmental management, and production processes such as sorting, washing, and dehairing. Of these, 76 are mandatory and 12 are improvement-oriented.

Mongolian factories implementing this standard have demonstrated notable progress, particularly in workplace safety. Many display clear safety guidelines near equipment, maintain risk assessments, and conduct emergency preparedness training. Information boards and regular safety instructions are also common practice.

Environmental compliance includes proper storage, transport, and disposal of chemicals, use of designated facilities, and energy efficiency initiatives. Green space development and restoration activities are also recognised during audits.

The human resource management criterion plays a crucial role in shaping the internal culture and ensuring the sustainable operation of processing plants. Factories are increasingly focusing on HR practices by ensuring that employees receive regular medical check-ups, are covered by accident insurance, and that labour relations align with human rights conventions and international standards.

The requirements under the supply chain management criterion focus on evaluating the level of collaboration, transparency, information flow, and traceability systems between processing factories and raw material supplier cooperatives. The aim is to assess whether an integrated and transparent partnership framework exists throughout the supply chain.

In the area of quality management, factories are required to register raw cashmere from the point of origin, conduct quality control at every stage, and undergo quality evaluations by independent certification bodies. Assessments also consider whether laboratory environments and the methods used are in line with international standards, accredited, and capable of producing reliable results.

Environmental management is not merely a component of the standard, but a genuine benchmark for measuring a factory’s commitment to responsible operations. Factories are implementing policies to improve energy efficiency by monitoring usage and introducing control systems. At the same time, they focus on waste sorting, recycling, and wastewater treatment. Special attention is given to the safe use, storage, and disposal of chemicals. Initiatives aimed at increasing green spaces and undertaking land rehabilitation projects are being actively implemented—efforts which are often highlighted during standard audits.

During the scouring, dehairing, and sorting stages, factories are expected to continuously monitor and upgrade the productivity of machinery and equipment. They must ensure staff are professionally trained at each step and that technological procedures are strictly followed. Verification of full standard implementation includes the documentation of product origin, induction training for new staff, and compliance with safety protocols.

Supply Chain and Traceability Standards

Factories and certified cooperatives meeting the Clean Fibre Processing Standard undergo SFA traceability audits. The traceability system rests on three core standards: the SFA Animal Fibre Standard (for herders), the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard (for factories), and the SFA Chain of Custody Standard (for the supply chain).

Meeting all three ensures the production of certified, traceable, and responsibly sourced clean fibre products, contributing to the development of a transparent and sustainable supply chain in Mongolia’s cashmere sector.

Translated by Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

9 June 2025

Originally posted on 12 May 2025: https://sustainablefibre.mn/cab-traning-exchanges/

5-Year Project with Loro Piana & Key Partners Launches to Empower Cashmere Herders

Posted by Katy Edwards

MILAN, ITALY – MAY 15, 2025 – Loro Piana, Maison of the LVMH group, has announced the launch of “Resilient Threads”, a 5-year programme supporting Mongolia’s cashmere cooperatives, herding communities, and steppes of Mongolia.

This initiative is dedicated to fostering and strengthening herders’ livelihoods across five districts or soums in Mongolia’s highly vulnerable Sukhbaatar Province and aims to build supply chain resilience while protecting the biodiversity of Mongolia’s Eastern Steppe Region, one of the world’s last intact grassland ecosystems. The region is hit by heavy climate disruptions, particularly Dzud – an extreme winter disaster that prevents grazing, limits access to feed and water, and results in widespread livestock losses and serious impacts on human health.

Image: Loro Piana

“At Loro Piana, our commitment to preserve the ecosystems that sustain our craft is unwavering. This multi-year program will support the Mongolian communities who are vital partners to the Maison while protecting the environment. With ‘Resilient Threads,’ we aim to raise the standard of responsible cashmere sourcing, enhance the lives of herder communities in the Sukhbaatar province, protect and restore the biodiversity, contributing to the future of the entire cashmere industry in Mongolia.”

Damien Bertrand, CEO of Loro Piana

As part of Loro Piana’s longstanding commitment to biodiversity preservation and animal welfare, while empowering people, the “Resilient Threads” programme is the result of two years of preparatory work, built upon cooperatives and local herders’ expertise, in partnership with the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification (UNCCD), the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA), and the Odyssey Conservation Trust (OCT). Building on comprehensive research focused on understanding the climate-related risks, the programme aligns with Mongolia’s economic, climate, biodiversity, and equity goals: from the beginning, the project has been co-designed with the government, local partners, and herder cooperatives to assess priority needs and strategies.

“The Resilient Threads Project is strongly supported by the Minister of Environment and Climate Change of Mongolia and the local government of the Sukhbaatar province, who fully endorse its unified vision under the One Health approach – promoting systemic change for the well-being of people, animals, and the environment alike. This initiative reflects the Government’s deep commitment to preserving Mongolia’s natural heritage, empowering local communities, and ensuring the long-term sustainability of our precious steppe ecosystems in the face of the adverse impacts of climate change.”

Odontoya Saldan, Minister of Environment and Climate Change of Mongolia

Image: Loro Piana

The programme takes the holistic “One Health” approach as it considers the well-being and health of people, animals, and the environment as interconnected. This year, the programme will establish the first mobile “One Health Hub”, reaching remote locations with vehicles to deliver a combination of services including preventive healthcare and vaccination campaigns, trainings, and awareness initiatives on healthcare issues, aligned with the government health programmes. Furthermore, a biodiversity centre will promote rangeland health: a seeds bank will be established to protect and grow some plants that are essential for the interconnected wellbeing of environment, animals, and humans, as they combat soil erosion and act against climate change, have active principles useful for medicinal purpose, or are connected with alimentary supply chain, allowing people livelihood diversification.

“We’re thrilled to be collaborating alongside our committed Resilient Threads Project partners and the Government of Mongolia as we move forward and begin this transformative journey in the Eastern Steppe region. The initiative represents a meaningful opportunity to support cashmere herding communities, particularly in the Sukhbaatar aimag, as they navigate the growing challenges posed by climate change and future epidemics. By grounding the project in the One Health concept, we’re embracing a holistic approach that strongly aligns with herders’ traditional nutag knowledge, where the health of people, animals, and the environment are deeply interconnected. We look forward to working side by side with local communities to build livelihood resilience and secure a sustainable future for Mongolia’s cashmere sector.”

Una Jones, CEO of the SFA

This project is fully aligned with LIFE 360, the environmental LVMH Group’s strategy, which promotes responsible sourcing and the active protection of ecosystems. The Group and its Maisons are committed to avoid sourcing in areas at risk of deforestation or desertification, and to restoring 5 million hectares of natural habitats by 2030. “Resilient Threads” is a concrete expression of these commitments, built in partnership, implemented on the ground.

For more information:

Loro Piana is a symbol of Italian excellence, with collections that embody a distinctive style marked by tasteful elegance. Since its founding, Loro Piana has pursued and continuously redefined the goal of offering extraordinary beauty and craftsmanship to a demanding international clientele, lending equal attention to the quality of the service we provide.

Read the full press release here.

SFA & ICCAW Co-Host Seminars & Meetings at Leading Cashmere Factories in China

Posted by Katy Edwards

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) continues collaborating with its member cashmere processing companies to foster responsible and sustainable supply chains.

From the 14th to the 20th of April 2025, the SFA, in partnership with the International Cooperation Committee on Animal Welfare (ICCAW), conducted site visits, meetings, and seminars at several leading cashmere manufacturing companies across China.

As part of this initiative, the SFA engaged with the following member factories:

  • ERDOS Cashmere Group, Ordos City
  • Consinee Group, Ningbo City
  • Hebei Yuteng Cashmere Products Co., Ltd., Hebei Province
  • Chifeng Dongrong Group, Chifeng (Ulaan Had) City

During the seminars, SFA’s CEO, Una Jones, delivered a comprehensive presentation on the SFA’s Volume-Based Fee (VBF) model. At the same time, ICCAW’s Vice President, Mr Ayongxi, presented on cashmere standards and certification processes.

The hosting companies shared their practical sustainability initiatives and introduced their ongoing projects. They also discussed potential future collaboration opportunities with the SFA and ICCAW representatives. These exchanges provided a valuable platform for information sharing, experience exchange, factory tours, and in-depth discussions.

Mr Ayongxi also gave an overview of ICCAW’s operations, highlighting that the organisation was established in 2013 with approval from the Ministry of Agriculture and registration under the Ministry of Civil Affairs in China. ICCAW operates under the China Association for the Promotion of International Agricultural Cooperation (CAPIAC), aiming to enhance domestic and international agricultural collaboration and improve animal welfare across the country. As a national non-profit organisation, its scope and impact are significant.

Mr Ayongxi presented the history of standard development and implementation in the cashmere sector. Since 2019, ICCAW has worked closely with the SFA and internationally recognised institutions to develop and implement the “Cashmere Goat Welfare Standard”. This standard has been validated on-site in key cashmere-producing regions in China, such as Inner Mongolia, Gansu, Shanxi, Liaoning, Ningxia, and Qinghai, reaching 37,510 farming households.

During the presentations, Mr Ayongxi emphasised the current challenges in the sector, including political risks and data security concerns, urging stakeholders to strengthen collaboration and ensure effective domestic implementation of standards to achieve true sustainability.

What is the SFA's Volume-Based Fee (VBF)?

A key highlight of the seminar was Una Jones’ detailed presentation of the SFA’s Volume-Based Fee (VBF) system. Jones explained its objectives and benefits, noting that the system is designed to support the rising demand for certified cashmere by strengthening transparency and efficiency in the supply chain while providing tangible support for herder well-being. The system was officially launched for the 2024 cashmere season.

Core goals of the SFA Volume-Based Fee (VBF):

  • Sustain the delivery of training and certification in line with the increasing demand for certified cashmere.
  • Invest in impactful activities that enhance herder capacity and animal welfare.
  • Improve traceability systems and supply chain verification.
  • Build trust and stakeholder business relationships among brands, buyers, herders, and all supply chain stakeholders.

Why was the SFA Volume-Based Fee (VBF) introduced?

Due to the rapid growth in demand for certified cashmere in recent years:

  • Training, auditing, and certification activities have expanded.
  • The number of herders and farms participating in the programme has increased.
  • Traceability requirements across the supply chain have grown.

To cover these additional costs and maintain high-quality certification services, the SFA launched the Volume-Based Fee (VBF) model. This model aims to ensure long-term sustainability without compromising the quality of standards.

The discussions and interactions during this visit served as a knowledge exchange and a crucial opportunity to deepen shared understanding and reinforce industry collaboration. The SFA and ICCAW remain committed to further strengthening their partnership, supporting cashmere producers in meeting international sustainability standards, and working together to foster a more transparent, responsible, and environmentally friendly global cashmere sector.

Translated by Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

7 May 2025

Originally posted on 29 April 2025: https://sustainablefibre.mn/sfa-and-iccaw-jointly-host-training-2/

SFA Mongolia Participates in a Knowledge Exchange Programme Hosted by ICCAW

Posted by Katy Edwards

The team from the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) Mongolia office, which actively works to localise and implement international voluntary standards for responsible cashmere production and promote social and environmental sustainability in Mongolia, participated in a training and experience exchange programme organised in Ordos, Inner Mongolia, from the 14th to the 20th of April 2025 at the invitation of the International Cooperation Committee on Animal Welfare (ICCAW).

Representatives from SFA Mongolia’s official training partner, Nutag Action Research & Training Centre (NARTC), and NEXUS Connect, an SFA-approved Conformity Assessment Body (CAB) based in Mongolia responsible for conducting conformity assessments for the SFA Animal Fibre Standard (AFS), also participated in the event.

The joint experience and knowledge-sharing exchange programme was organised within the collaboration framework between ICCAW and the SFA. Participants visited cashmere goat farms, research centres, and “smart” farms in Ordos, gaining insights into implementing animal welfare standards and applying technological advancements in the livestock sector.

1. "Erdos Eco Ranch" - Visiting the Arbas-Breed Goat Farm

During their stay in Ordos, the team visited the “Erdos Eco Ranch”, a modern eco-farm initiated by the ERDOS Group. This innovative farm has implemented “smart” solutions to maintain environmental balance, ensure animal welfare, and produce sustainable cashmere fibre. The Eco Ranch forms part of the ERDOS Group’s responsible production strategy.

The farm features four types of national-level laboratories for research on goat breeding, feed development, animal health, and cashmere fibre quality. It integrates cashmere production with scientific research, a model that supports sustainable development.

These laboratories collaborate with prestigious institutions, including China Agricultural University, Inner Mongolia Agricultural University, and Inner Mongolia University, to research improving cashmere quality and goat breeds. During the visit, researchers and students from Inner Mongolia Agricultural University conducted studies at the farm, demonstrating the close integration of production and scientific research.

The farm successfully implements a standardised breeding system that simultaneously ensures high-quality raw materials, animal welfare, and environmental protection. Key components include:

  • Breeding Management: Focused breeding using high-yield Arbas-breed bucks through selective reproduction and scientific management.
  • Pasture Management: Implement grazing bans to allow vegetation recovery, rotational pasture use to prevent degradation, and balance livestock numbers with available winter feed.
  • Supplementary Feeding: Development and provision of optimised feed formulas based on livestock needs during winter and feed shortages.
  • Water Supply: Provision of clean and accessible water using wells and reservoirs, with water temperature carefully controlled in winter conditions.
  • Shelter & Enclosures: Facilities planned according to standards, providing 5-2 m2 per goat indoors and 2.5-3 m2 per goat in open exercise areas.
  • Veterinary Care: Regular deworming and skin disease prevention, dedicated spaces for vaccinations, and proper storage of veterinary supplies.
  • Record-Keeping: Detailed health, feeding, breeding, lineage, and fibre yield records for each goat, managed through a data-driven system.

2. Traditional Cashmere Combing Practices at a Local Farm

The team also visited the farm of herder Mr. Altangadas, who raises Arbas-breed white goats, to observe traditional cashmere combing practices. The goats’ coarse guard hairs are first clipped, followed by hand-combing, which yields higher-quality cashmere compared to sheared fibres.

The cashmere from the Arbas-breed goats averages between 14-15.8 microns in fibre diameter and 34-36 mm in length.

Mr Altangadas and his family combed on elevated platforms, reducing physical strain and allowing for cleaner, more efficient cashmere harvesting while ensuring the goats’ welfare.

On the farm, there is an established micro-museum and information centre dedicated to the Arbas-breed, displaying biodiversity exhibits, cashmere samples, and educational materials on local livestock biodiversity.

The ERDOS Group purchases most of the cashmere produced in the region. Herders who supply verified, high-quality fibre are awarded bonuses. Additionally, local authorities incentivise the production of ultra-fine cashmere (under 14 microns) to continually improve quality standards.

These supports foster stronger collaboration between the government, the private sector, and research institutions, creating tangible benefits for herders and the cashmere sector.

3. Introducing the BDS Visual Cloud Point Livestock System

The SFA Mongolia and ICCAW teams then went on to visit a cattle farm in Ejin Horo Banner, Ordos, where the BDS Visual Cloud Point Livestock system is used. This advanced system tracks livestock from birth, recording daily movement patterns, grazing locations, water intake, genetic lineage, vaccinations, and treatments. Data is automatically collected, photographed, and stored in a cloud-based platform.

Using AI technology, the system filters and selects the highest quality images of each animal for record-keeping. Each animal is fitted with a microchip that connects to motion-sensitive cameras at critical points, like water troughs and veterinary stations, enabling identification up to 35 metres away.

This system is more cost-effective than traditional manual and paper-based record-keeping and can be applied to various livestock types. It also increases transparency and traceability within the supply chains.

Translated by Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

29 April 2025

Original posted on 24 April 2025:
https://sustainablefibre.mn/sfa-and-iccaw-jointly-host-training/

Statements of Intent Published | SFA Camelid Scope & Clean Fibre Processing Standard Review

Posted by Katy Edwards

The SFA has published two Statements of Intent on our Standards system, one on a Camelid Scope expansion of the SFA Animal Fibre Standard and the other a review of the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard, and we are seeking feedback from all stakeholders and members of the public. Learn more about how to participate and provide feedback on these Statements of Intent below…

SFA Animal Fibre Standard Camelid Scope

Why camelids?

Camelids are vital to pastoral communities worldwide, supporting their cultures, economies, and food security. From the Andean highlands to the arid regions of Africa, Asia, and the Middle East, these resilient animals provide fibre and food even in extreme climates, helping indigenous peoples adapt to climate change.

Despite their importance, no standard currently defines responsible camelid fibre production. In 2024, alongside the International Year of Camelids, we began developing an expansion of the SFA Animal Fibre Standard (AFS) to include requirements for camelids, following our key scope focus of animal welfare and responsible fibre production.

View the AFS Camelid Scope - Statement of Intent

What’s next?

In recognition of this development, we have published an AFS Camelid Scope Statement of Intent to highlight why this new scope expansion is being considered and the development process. We are now seeking feedback on the Statement of Intent from all stakeholders and members of the public through a fair and inclusive consultation process.

Until 28th April 2025, stakeholders can provide feedback through our Open Consultation Portal. Following this initial consultation period, a draft revised standard will then open for public consultation from early July to early September 2025.

Provide Feedback through our Open Consultation Portal

SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard Review

Why a revised standard?

Version 1.1 of the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard (CFPS), published in 2021, was created to minimise the environmental impact of cashmere processing, particularly by eliminating harmful chemicals like alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) from scouring and dehairing.

Clause 6.14 of the ISEAL Code of Good Practice requires standards to be reviewed every five years for relevance and effectiveness. With the last update in 2021, the CFPS v1.1 is now due for review.

View the CFPS - Statement of Intent

What’s next?

Following this requirement for review, we have published a CFPS v2.0 Statement of Intent to showcase the different areas that are being considered and the development process. We are now seeking feedback on the Statement of Intent from all stakeholders and members of the public through a fair and inclusive consultation process.

Until September 2025, stakeholders can provide feedback through our Open Consultation Portal. Following this, a draft revised standard of v2.0 will then open for public consultation from late 2025 to early 2026.

Provide Feedback through our Open Consultation Portal

Katy Edwards

SFA MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

1 April 2025

2024 Highlights | An SFA Year in Summary

Posted by Katy Edwards

A Year of Resilience & Progress Towards Sustainability

As we reach the end of 2024, it’s a moment to reflect on a year that has tested our resolve yet propelled significant progress in the sustainability of the natural fibre sector. Despite challenges from natural disasters to the acceleration of climate change impacts, the SFA continued to lead the charge in promoting resilient practices across the industry. Here are our key highlights from this transformative year.

Response to the Dzud Natural Disaster

The year began with the devastating Dzud natural disaster, an extreme winter weather event that struck the Mongolian countryside from mid-January to the end of April. This event saw the loss of 7.44 million livestock, as shown in the Dzud Livestock Loss Report by the Ministry of Food, Agriculture & Light Industry of Mongolia (MoFALI), accounting for 11.50% of the country’s herds and affecting herders, wildlife, and local ecosystems. In response, the SFA mobilised immediately, appealing to all its members and partners for support. Through February and May 2024, the SFA Mongolia team launched two phases of relief efforts, distributing aid and provisions to 28 herding cooperatives in the hardest-hit eastern provinces. These efforts included providing nutritious grass hay bales and salt minerals to critical corridors for native herbivore wildlife, such as red deer, gazelle, and roe deer.

Thanks to the overwhelming generosity of our SFA Members and wider partners, over £153,000 was raised for the SFA’s Dzud emergency fund. This support enabled the SFA to establish a Community Development Fund, focusing on long-term recovery for herders affected by the Dzud and similar climate crises. Together we can enhance effectiveness, support socio-economic stability, and strengthen supply chain resilience against climate change.

“Long-term planning is crucial for strengthening disaster preparedness, risk management, and governance,” stated Una Jones, CEO of the SFA. “The impacts of climate change are intensifying, and it’s critical that we build resilient systems now to support herder communities in the future.”

Advancements in Standards & Global Collaboration

Throughout 2024, the SFA made significant advancements in its standards system, laying the groundwork for future growth and sustainability. The year saw the launch of the SFA Chain of Custody Standard v1.1, the SFA Assurance & Certification Manual v2.0, and the CAB Oversight Manual v1.1. These updates provided robust frameworks for ensuring sustainable practices across the industry.

A major highlight came towards the end of the year with the publication of the SFA Animal Fibre Standard v1.0 in December with an effective date of 1st April 2025. Originally titled the SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0, the evolution of the standard marked a pivotal moment for the SFA standards system after following a robust revision and consultation period from 2022 to 2024. With a focus remaining on the responsible production of cashmere fibre, this standard has been developed to allow the integration of other natural fibres in the future, including but not limited to camel, yak and horse hair. This unified approach ensures better support for herders and herding communities by covering diverse commodities within the SFA standards system. A Summary of Changes document was published alongside the SFA Animal Fibre Standard v1.0, providing detailed information on the changes to the standard and outlining how the current standard system differs from the new one, specifically highlighting where changes were driven or affected by feedback received through consultation.

Throughout 2024, the SFA has held consultations on a camelids scope expansion for the SFA standards system, reflecting the increasing recognition of the camelids’ role in global sustainability. The International Year of the Camelids, designated by the United Nations in 2024, underscored the importance of these animals in supporting livelihoods, culture, and environmental sustainability worldwide. In addition to this, the SFA has been working with sector partners and industry stakeholders as part of the Rangeland Stewardship Council (RSC) to co-develop a Camelid Standard as part of the Global Rangelands Standard framework to promote the responsible certification of fibre, meat, and dairy production, reflecting our commitment to supporting herders through comprehensive, unified standards.

Raising Awareness on the International Stage

In addition to standards development, the SFA actively participated in key global forums, fostering collaboration and dialogue across industries. In April, the Sustainable Natural Fibres (SNF) Global Conference in Beijing, organised in partnership with the International Cooperation Committee on Animal Welfare (ICCAW), brought together nearly 400 participants from diverse backgrounds to discuss traceability, animal welfare, and climate change.

At the beginning of September, the SFA Mongolia Conference in Ulaanbaatar focused on the impacts of dzud and strategies for sustainable practices, with over 130 attendees, from herders to government officials and international experts. The conference also included the highly anticipated Herder Sustainability Awards for 2024, recognising excellence in sustainable practices.

A significant highlight was the SFA’s involvement at the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification (UNCCD) COP16 conference in Riyadh in December, where the Rangeland Stewardship Council (RSC) initiative was officially introduced to the global stage. The two-week event featured discussions on the impacts of desertification, land degradation, and drought, focusing on the importance of private-sector investment in rangeland restoration and the role of fashion brands in promoting sustainable practices.

A key takeaway included the reflection on the importance of connecting the land with the textiles sector, which was discussed in-depth during the Fashion4Land event on 4th December. The session underscored the fashion industry’s pivotal role in environmental sustainability and explored key policy frameworks and market-based mechanisms. Aligned with the event, the UNCCD published its “Fashion & Land: Unravelling the Environmental Impacts of Fibre” paper highlighting the virtues and challenges of specific fibre groups, including cotton and wool, and the crucial importance of fibre choice in the fashion industry.

“We often forget, what is the human impact of climate change. How can we support herders and communities? How can we support indigenous knowledge and wisdom in bringing change?” said Una Jones during the Fashion4Land panel discussion. “At the heart of how we [the SFA] support people is that we support herders and herding communities, empowering them and incentivising them in bringing effective land management and effective animal health welfare.”

This RSC is supported by the UNCCD, SFA and the Global Environment Facility-funded STELARR (Sustainable Investments for Large-Scale Rangeland Restoration) Project, which is implemented by IUCN and executed by ILRI and partners.

New Initiatives & Future Directions

The SFA’s initiatives throughout 2024 also set the stage for future impact through the announcement of new initiatives and partnerships.

We are excited to announce the appointment of Ian Whiteford as the new Chairman of the SFA Board, effective 2024. With a wealth of experience in certifications, supply chain management, chemical management, and sustainability in luxury brands, Mr Whiteford is poised to provide the leadership and strategic vision needed to propel the SFA into its next chapter of growth and success. Having travelled to Mongolia several times during his career, working to establish a traceable and sustainable cashmere supply chain with SFA-registered herders, Mr Whitefod has a deep understanding of the passion and commitment that drives and underpins the SFA’s work.

Ian Whiteford, second from the left, joined members of the SFA Board, CEO, Head of Standards & Project Manager during the NFC 2024 Conference in Biella, Italy.

“I know the skill, energy and enthusiasm that Una and all the staff bring to their work and I am delighted and honoured to be part of it,” said Ian Whiteford on his appointment as Chairman of the SFA Board.

In September, the SFA co-hosted the Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) Conference in Biella, Italy, exploring regenerative agriculture, policy impacts, and women’s empowerment within the natural fibre sector. This event was a vital space for dialogue between stakeholders across the cashmere, wool, alpaca, and mohair sectors. Extending conversations beyond the fibre industry, the SFA and RSC partners highlighted the benefits of the unified Global Rangelands Standard to support the world’s rangelands and those who rely upon them.

At the end of September, the SFA participated in New York Climate Week and was invited to join the closed group discussion on “Fashion Must Protect Our Farmers, Our Land & Our Communities”, which underscored the role of the natural fibre sector in addressing supply chain challenges and fostering collaboration among industry leaders.

In October, a two-day workshop was held in Nairobi, Kenya, to discuss the develop a Monitoring, Evaluation, and Learning (MEL) framework. This framework will be implemented alongside the RSC’s Global Rangelands Standard, providing a robust approach for monitoring the environmental, social and economic impacts of the RSC certification programme.

A key project for the SFA was the launch of Herder Connect: Empowering Animal Fibre Producers through Digital Tools, a two-year project funded by the SFA and ISEAL. In partnership with Khan Bank and the Nutag Action Research Training Centre (NARTC), the project includes real-time cashmere pricing, financial training, and expert advice on sustainable practices, ensuring herders have the tools they need to thrive in an increasingly complex market.

Having received a 5-month extension in 2024, the SFA Afghan Project has successfully trained over 5,000 Afghan farmers on the SFA standards system, 30% of which have been female herders. This has highlighted the critical role of women in sustaining livelihoods in conflict-affected regions. Set to continue making significant developments in 2025, the project aims to establish the infrastructure required for certification against the SFA’s Animal Fibre Standard and Clean Fibre Processing Standard.

At the same time, the SFA Mongolia team partnered with the United Nations Food & Agriculture Organisation (FAO), as part of the Mountain Heritage & Sustainable Cashmere in Mongolia collaborative programme. Through this partnership, we have provided and co-funded training on the SFA’s Animal Husbandry and Rangeland Stewardship Codes of Practice to herding communities in Mongolia’s mountainous regions throughout 2023 and 2024.

Earlier in the year, ISEAL published a series of papers on “Measurement and monitoring for landscape jurisdictional approaches (2024)”. These papers included a pilot learning report that the SFA participated in throughout 2023 and 2024 to develop a biodiversity and nature-focused Monitoring, Evaluation & Learning (MEL) framework for the Mongolian rangelands. 

Over the year, the SFA convened a group of rangeland social scientists to conduct a study on the resilience of Mongolian herding communities to dzud. This study will build on earlier research into dzud preparedness and identify how the SFA can build better systems to support herding communities holistically, accounting for environmental conditions, biodiversity, and social factors.

Conclusion

As 2024 draws to a close, the SFA reflects on a year marked by resilience, innovation, and collaboration. Thanks to the dedication of our partners, herders, members, and the wider community, we have made meaningful strides toward a sustainable future. We look forward to continued growth, collaboration, and impactful progress in 2025, as we work together to drive positive change in natural fibre value chains.

Here's to continued progress and collaboration in 2025!

Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

18 December 2024

SFA & RSC Call For Private Sector Commitments for Sustainable Land Management at UNCCD COP16

Posted by Katy Edwards

SFA & Rangeland Stewardship Council Partners Call For Private Sector Commitments to Drive Sustainable Land Management at UNCCD COP16

Last week marked the end of UNCCD COP16 in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia where global voices came together to renew commitment and accelerate investment and action to restore land and boost resilience for the benefit of people and the planet. Supported by the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification (UNCCD) and the Global Environment Facility-funded STELARR (Sustainable Investments for Large Scale Rangeland Restoration) Project, which is implemented by IUCN and executed by ILRI and partners, the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) joined forces with these Rangeland Stewardship Council (RSC) partners during the two-week event to raise the call for a more inclusive approach to land management that places rangeland ecosystems at the heart of climate action. By officially introducing the RSC initiative, the SFA and its partners underscored the vital role that rangeland management plays in driving climate resilience and sustainability within global agricultural and commodity supply chains.

With a focus on advancing sustainable land management practices and supporting pastoral communities, the RSC initiative is advocating for comprehensive multi-stakeholder partnerships and policy frameworks that prioritise rangeland restoration, biodiversity conservation, and carbon sequestration. As part of the launch during UNCCD COP16’s Land Day events on 4th December 2024, the RSC called on governments and businesses to provide critical support for local communities managing rangelands, ensuring they are empowered to lead sustainable land use and commodity production efforts.

“We often forget, what is the human impact of climate change. How can we support herders and communities? How can we support indigenous knowledge and wisdom in bringing change?” said Una Jones, CEO of the SFA during the Fashion4Land panel discussion. “At the heart of how we [the SFA] support people is that we support herders and herding communities, empowering them and incentivising them in bringing effective land management and effective animal health welfare.”

Why is this so important? In Mongolia, for example, 1/3 of the population are nomadic herders. For millennia, Mongolians have been pastoralists of the land, living in one with the natural landscape and using traditional nomadic practices to graze their livestock. In the natural fibre sector, cashmere is a key income source for Mongolian herders, accounting for around 80-90% of their total income, with the livestock sector as a whole accounting for around 12% of Mongolia’s GDP. However, over the last 3 decades, the effects of land degradation, climate change, extreme weather conditions and overgrazing have accelerated leaving herders exacerbated, with more and more young herders opting to move to the cities and leave the herding lifestyle behind them.

Empowering Rangeland Managers for a Sustainable Future

The RSC initiative is built on the premise that sustainable rangeland management is essential not only for the health of ecosystems but also for the resilience of communities who depend on them. By providing a global platform for best practice development, the RSC aims to create a certification framework that will guide rangeland managers in improving grazing systems, soil health, and water conservation practices – the RSC Global Rangelands Standard. Through this initiative, the SFA and collaborating partners seek to ensure that rangelands continue to serve as critical resources for fibre and commodity production, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration.

The Need for Increased Support for Rangeland Ecosystems

Rangelands, which cover more than half of the planet’s surface, face increasing threats from climate change, unsustainable grazing, and land degradation. Yet, these regions remain crucial to food production and carbon storage. Despite this, rangeland managers often lack the necessary financial and technical support to adapt to the challenges they face. The RSC initiative, alongside its supporting partners, aims to change this by aligning with global sustainability goals and attracting investment in land stewardship practices.

“Within the SFA we think that collaboration and convening is one of the key ways for us to achieve greater impact together. Working across multi-stakeholder environments we need to bring landscape jurisdiction-based approach, as well as working with wider stakeholders and wider sectors to be able to achieve the Land Degradation Neutrality,” said Jones. “It’s really important for us in bringing a collaborative approach – we always say, if you want to go quick, go on your own, but if you want to bring a greater impact it’s always important for us to work together, collaboratively.”

Collaboration for Impact

The official introduction of the RSC initiative at UNCCD COP16 comes at a pivotal time for global efforts to combat desertification and land degradation. With rangeland ecosystems under pressure, the initiative emphasises the need for collaborative action across governments, businesses, and local communities to restore and protect these critical areas.

Through its partnership with other stakeholders, the SFA is focused on ensuring that the rangeland management community has the resources and knowledge to thrive. This includes not only improved financial investment but also policy support and capacity building for those on the frontlines of land stewardship.

“In order to protect the rangelands, you need to protect the interests and livelihoods of those who are living on those rangelands, whether they are the humans or the other animals occupying that space, you need to look after all three of those as one,” said David McElroy, Head of Standards at the SFA during the ‘Sustainable Commodities and the RSC’ side event during UNCCD COP16.

A Call to Action

As world leaders gathered to discuss the future of land restoration, the RSC and SFA’s call to action stressed the importance of prioritising restoration and sustainable management of our world’s rangelands. The RSC initiative offers an innovative solution to tackling land degradation while providing tangible benefits for local communities and industries that depend on healthy ecosystems.

Learn more about the Rangeland Stewardship Council initiative on the RSC website or by contacting info@rangelandstewardship.org

Notes to Editors

Global rangelands and climate change:

Rangelands are highly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change, including extreme weather events, water scarcity, and biodiversity loss. Ensuring that rangeland ecosystems are managed sustainably is key to maintaining their function as carbon sinks and vital sources of fibre.

UNCCD COP16 Events Hosted & Participated by the SFA & RSC:

  • 4 December – Land Day ‘Global Rangelands Standard: A Framework for Sustainable Pastoral Futures’
  • 4 December – Land Day ‘COP Presidency Event on Rangelands’
  • 4 December – Land Day ‘Fashion4Land Event at UNCCD COP16’
  • 11 December – ‘Pastoralist Women Restoring Rangelands’
  • 11 December – ‘Sustainable Investments for Large-Scale Rangeland Restoration’
  • 12 December – ‘Sustainable Commodities & the RSC’
  • 12 December – ‘Camelid Standard Development by the RSC’

Katy Edwards

SFA MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

16 December 2024

Decent Work for Women Herders in Mongolia: What’s being done?

Posted by Katy Edwards

Over the course of 2022, the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA)1 carried out comprehensive research, designed to explore the realities of decent work and women’s empowerment within cashmere herding communities in Mongolia. The research, which formed the baseline for ensuring the support and inclusion of decent work and gender themes within the SFA’s work, explored a range of topics with women from the Arkhangai and Bayankhongor provinces and looked to define decent work in conjunction with several core factors. These included the health and wellbeing of their families, livestock and their environment – also known as the nutag2. They discussed external factors such as the growing threat of climate change and the increasing frequency of extreme weather patterns, alongside societal and structural barriers to education, training, self-care, child labour, culture loss, collective representation and social isolation due to the triple labour burden3. Naturally, it’s important to note that one organisation alone can’t address the entirety of these obstacles and there are a number of contributing factors that impact and mould women’s access to decent work that are outside the influence of such agencies as the SFA. Instead, it takes a holistic, comprehensive approach from many different inputs that are inclusive but not limited to international and national governments and organisations, culture, and the fluidity and expectations of gender roles and their recognition within the family and community units they exist in.

The SFA’s Cashmere Standard, which defines best practices for responsible cashmere production in line with the ILO’s Conventions, operates on Voluntary Sustainability Systems4 which, in the context of the UN’s Global Goals, have the opportunity to deliver gender-inclusive, decent work opportunities for women, especially within the context of rural pastoralists. Both male and female Mongolian herders see herding as a meaningful way of life, not just a profession, with meaningful work going hand-in-hand with their view of decent work. Meaningful work, defined by the herders as having pride and a sense of identity when it came to their labour, culture, knowledge and produce, gave them a feeling of value and respect within their communities. The promotion of decent work is one of five Global Principles that form the SFA’s Cashmere Standard. The Standard’s focus on decent work is specific to implementing: fair hiring practices, fair working conditions, the protection of traditional communities, the prevention of child labour and the promotion of health and safety. In practice, cooperatives and/or herders that are accredited by the SFA must adhere to these guidelines to obtain and maintain SFA certification. Human rights and gender equality play a significant role throughout the Standard’s criteria, ensuring not only fair treatment and active roles in decision-making for women in SFA cooperatives but also equal pay – equal pay for equal work. In January 2023, a revised version of the SFA’s Cashmere Standard was published to include the SFA’s three herder-level codes of practice; the Rangeland Stewardship and Animal Husbandry Codes of Practice and the SFA x ICCAW Cashmere Goat Welfare Code of Practice. Since then, the Standard has gone through a further period of consultation and revision to create the Cashmere Standard V2.0 . This took place during 2024. Throughout the consultation period, the SFA has worked in collaboration with external consultant Tristam Barrett to examine areas for development in the revised Cashmere Standard with respect to mainstreaming gender, in line with but not exclusive to the recommendations from the women herders’ discussions with Professor María E. Fernández-Giménez and her team. These findings have shaped Version 2.0 and the criteria in which they address gender inclusion within the application of the Cashmere Standard within herder communities.

In conjunction with their personal relationships with decent work, the women who took part in the research observed the significant issue with children, especially boys, being removed from school too early to support the herd. They addressed the pressures of ensuring their children gained access to an education, while highlighting that if mothers were unable to leave their children at soum centres5, they would have to home-school them, further adding to their workload. Addressing children’s premature removal from school, the SFA’s Cashmere Standard v2.0 states:

  • The entity (herders and/or herder cooperatives) and its sites shall ensure that school-age children learning to herd livestock only do so outside of school hours.

 

As well as noting that children are required to stay in school throughout schooling years, the SFA’s Cashmere Standard naturally takes a hard line on child labour of any kind stating that ‘children should not be involved in any hazardous labour or engage in the worst forms of child labour’ as defined by the ILO Convention 182 and Recommendation 190. Due to the conjoined nature of family and work life for herder families, extra pressures within the family unit directly impact situations for mothers who have to juggle the health and well-being of their family while ensuring the health, quality and productivity of their livestock and produce. Furthermore, the expectation on women to come forward as decision-makers within their communities, while having to deal with the pressures of the triple labour burden, may also present extra pressure in the name of ‘gender progression’. Understanding the nuances of what women gain from their work both at home and outside is paramount to the development of women’s roles within wider cashmere herding communities.

During the research, there were discussions regarding the impact of increased rural-to-urban migration – a country-wide shift seeing more and more young people migrating to the capital Ulaanbaatar in search of work and a more modern way of life6. The women made recommendations to ensure such a movement of people didn’t lead to culture loss, stressing the importance of promoting the benefits of herder culture and life in the countryside. They highlighted how increasing training opportunities for young herders, the development of urban-rural exchange programs, networking, and the development of work experience opportunities for urban youth could all raise awareness about their heritage and herder culture, while showcasing the positive attributes of life as a Mongolian herder. While there is no one way to address these concerns in their entirety, the SFA takes informed approaches to carry out changes with short-, medium- and long-term work programmes. Through herder-based incentives and work programmes to support best practices, the SFA recognises herders’ sustainability, fibre quality and animal welfare contributions, while celebrating best practices with nationally recognised awards. The SFA’s work programmes, funded by SFA members, focus on more targeted training opportunities for herders and herding communities across young herders, women empowerment, animal welfare, water stewardship, and breeding and fibre quality. The programmes allow the SFA’s brand members to contribute towards training that may address some of the issues raised by the women herders. For example, by funding training for young herders, might this bridge the gap for young people who might not have decided on their futures in herding? Or could fully funded, competency-based training help women to gain access to better economic opportunities?

A statement from the SFA’s Mongolian Country Coordinator, Vandandorj Sumiya:

“There are three different competency-based training programs and training materials developed: greasy cashmere sorting, animal health protection and animal breeding. Different trainings are organised at different seasons due to the nature of animal husbandry activities. For instance, greasy cashmere sorting training takes place in spring as it’s the main season for cashmere combing. Animal health protection training is conducted during summer, during which most herders do annual vaccinations for animals and use vet services, and animal breeding training is organised in autumn, just before breeding season starts.”

Sumiya goes on to explain that, “The training has been happening since 2021 and at this moment over 1,800 herders have attended the training, and of which 1,100 are female herders. The competency-based training courses have two sections, one in a classroom that focuses on providing information or theoretical knowledge that takes one day. The second part is in practice, during which herders practise what they have learnt about animal husbandry and provide proof or documentation of their practice to the trainers. Once herders attend all three courses, they will be awarded a “Herder” occupational certificate from the Ministry of Labor and Social Protection.”

You can learn more about the SFA’s various work and incentive programmes here.

External factors such as climate change and the growing frequency and intensity of dzuds were overarching themes throughout the research. When discussing the damaging impact of dzuds on their communities and their livestock, the women recommended long-term weather forecasts and pre-warnings to signal appropriate preparations and the stockpiling of hay and other food items for animals. However, while some communities can gain access to preparatory items for such extreme winters, there are a number of other obstacles such as rising food and fuel prices that impact herders’ preparations ahead of difficult periods, especially in areas where the land is less productive. In collaboration with the SFA, Alina Haus from the University of Göttingen produced a study that took a closer look at these particular issues, focusing on winter preparation and feeding management of certified herder cooperatives – read a summary here. In February 2024, Mongolia was hit by a devastating dzud that affected 80% of the country, killing over 11% of livestock as of May 2024. To create a clearer understanding of the devastating impact of dzuds, the SFA have produced several articles better explaining both the personal and commercial cost of these weather patterns, their support and aid response and their plans for similar, catastrophic events in the future.

Women’s access to decent work in the context of SFA-certified cooperatives is underscored by a multitude of factors. The combined pressures of the triple labour burden, mass migration and climate change all factor in, adding further pressure to an already fragile ecosystem. The practical measures taken by the SFA including a more gender-responsive Cashmere Standard and incentives and training opportunities, all work towards creating a holistic framework that addresses some of the issues raised by the women who took part in the research. However, nuance is key and because of such uncertainty with respect to changes in climate, the environment and cultural shifts, women have a vital yet sensitive role in shaping the future of herding in modern Mongolia.

The SFA is developing its Women and Decent Work Strategy in the run-up to 2030 and 2040, and we encourage anyone to reach out to get involved.

Lotti Blades-Barrett

21 November 2024

1 Research conducted by Professor María E. Fernández-Giménez with the assistance of Tugsbuyan Bayarbat, Chantsallkham Jamsranjav and Tungalag Ulambayar.
2 ‘Nutag’ is a Mongolian nomadic term used to describe ‘homeland’.
3 The ‘triple labour burden’ refers to the house work, paid work and child/elder care women undertake.
4 Voluntary Sustainability Standards (VSS) are private standards that require products to meet specific economic, social and environmental sustainability metrics – Read more.
5 Soum centres are administrative and community centres for different districts across Mongolia and are often where children attend school.
6 ‘Steppes and the city: rural to urban migration in Mongolia’, The International Migrant Institute, 2017. Full article.

Access to Finance for Herder Communities in Mongolia

Posted by Katy Edwards

Access to finance for herder communities in Mongolia: A long-term strategic partnership between SFA and Khan Bank

Mongolia’s vast rangelands are home to nomadic herder communities who play an essential role in preserving the country’s cultural heritage and economy, particularly through the cashmere industry. However, these herders face persistent financial barriers, notably in accessing the credit necessary to sustain and grow their livelihoods. The broader economic strain is evident in Mongolia’s household debt, which accounts for approximately 25% of the nation’s Gross Domestic Product or GDP1, placing a disproportionate burden on rural herders. This vulnerability is exacerbated by climate change and increasingly volatile cashmere markets, further heightening herders’ financial precarity2. The sale of cashmere, especially in early spring when other livestock sales are limited, remains a crucial income stream for herding households. However, the industry’s notorious price volatility significantly undermines herders’ ability to secure a stable income, highlighting the pressing need for more accessible and sustainable financial support systems.

In response to these challenges, the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) and Khan Bank, a Mongolian national bank, joined forces with an aim to address the financial difficulties faced by Mongolian herders. Over the past six years, Khan Bank and the SFA have developed a pioneering partnership through a series of initiatives, training sessions, and innovative financial solutions. This article outlines the key milestones of this partnership, from its inception in 2018 through to the successful establishment of the “Green Loan” program in 2022 and ongoing support and collaboration in 2024 and beyond.

2018: Laying the Groundwork for Collaboration

  • In September 2018, Khan Bank and the SFA formalised their collaboration by signing a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to develop loan products tailored to the needs of SFA-certified herders and cooperatives and to organise basic financial training for them.
  • In November 2018, SFA and Khan Bank in collaboration with Nutag Action Research and Training Center (NARTC), carried out comprehensive research to assess the financial needs of stakeholders in Mongolia’s cashmere processing sector through a household survey of 286 herder families and 51 key-informant interviews to understand the financial challenges faced by herders.
  • In December 2018, a “Train the Trainers” course was organised, reaching over 50 herders from 24 cooperatives across eight provinces. These trainings focused on the SFA’s Animal Husbandry and Cashmere Fibre Harvesting Code of Practice and Rangeland Stewardship Code of Practice.

2019: Expanding Reach & Influence

  • In May 2019, Khan Bank participated as a sponsor in the SFA’s annual international conference, “Cashmere Preparation, Supply Chain, and Sustainable Development” further establishing its commitment to supporting the sustainable cashmere sector
  • By July 2019, the “Herder Empowerment Program” was launched in 26 districts across 10 provinces. This initiative aimed to provide herders with the knowledge and tools necessary to implement sustainable livestock management practices while increasing the efficiency of the cashmere value chain.
  • In November 2019, an online training course was conducted for Khan Bank employees, including branch and communication managers, to enhance their understanding of the SFA Codes of Practice.
  • As the year came to a close, the SFA and the Khan Bank jointly broadcast a series of 10 advice programs on the theme of “Responsible Herders” on the TV9 channel.

2020: Empowering Responsible Herders

  • The partnership continued into 2020, with the publication of a brochure titled “Proper Practices of Responsible Herders” to disseminate crucial information on appropriate animal husbandry practices that are welfare-friendly and sustainable.

2021: Responding to the COVID-19 Crisis

As the world grappled with the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2021, Khan Bank introduced new measures to support herders. They provided preferential loans to member cooperatives of the SFA as part of an action plan designed to mitigate the impact of the pandemic. These loans helped herders sustain operations during a challenging period while maintaining their commitment to sustainability.

2022: Launching the Green Loan Program

  • Khan Bank introduced the green loan program “Supporting the Supply of Sustainable Wool and Cashmere”, under which a total of 37 cooperatives that operate under the SFA’s Animal Husbandry and Rangeland Stewardship Codes of Practice and have obtained SFA certification were selected, and 3.8 billion MNT in loans were granted to 19 of these cooperatives.
  • By July 2022, the collaboration expanded its efforts by hosting a “Business Development of Herder Organizations” event, involving over 90 herders representing 54 cooperatives.
  • A video was released in August 2022, providing advice on the challenges involved in applying for the ‘Green Loan’ product.
  • In September 2022, at the Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) international conference jointly organised by the SFA, International Alpaca Association, Schneider Group, and Mohair South Africa, discussions centred on green financing and the future of sustainable natural fibres.

2023: Strengthening Green Financing Initiatives

  • In June 2023, Khan Bank and the SFA met with member cooperatives and processors, providing crucial information on loan products. As part of this ongoing effort, the green loan product was continued for a second year in July 2023.
  • By December 2023, green financing specialists from both organisations met to review loan products and discuss establishing loan monitoring and evaluation indicators, and issues related to assessing the effectiveness of the program.

2024: The Green Loan Program Becomes Permanent

As of February 2024, the “Green Loan to Support the Supply of Sustainable Wool and Cashmere” has entered its third year, cumulatively providing loans to 35 cooperatives, a total of 10 billion MNT (GBP 2.3 million) since 2022.

With the conclusion of the trial phase, the Green Loan program has now become a regular feature of Khan Bank’s offerings, ensuring that herders and cooperatives will continue to have access to financial support annually.

Voices from the Field

Zalaa Shine Jinst Herder Cooperative has secured a 400 million MNT loan from Khan Bank in 2022 and 2023. The green loan has been a valuable support for herders, enabling them to buy essential fodder during challenging times, and helping sustain their livestock throughout the year.

The herders report that they can now meet cash needs by taking advances from the cooperative, protecting them from losses associated with high-interest credit purchases.

For the past two years, the cooperative has purchased essential goods for herders through this green loan such as flour, rice, hay, animal feed, fence board, winter shelter input, etc. and provided to herders at prices lower than market rates. This access to lower-priced goods has significantly supported herders’ livelihoods by saving them money, enabling them to accumulate savings, and strengthening their financial stability.

Towards the Future: A Model for Sustainable Financing

The partnership between Khan Bank and the SFA demonstrates the power of collaboration in driving sustainable development. Over the past six years, this partnership has provided crucial financial tools and educational resources to herders across Mongolia, helping them adopt sustainable practices and enhance the value of their cashmere products. As the Green Loan program becomes a permanent fixture, it stands as a testament to the long-term viability of responsible cashmere production. This initiative serves as a model for how green financing can transform industries and foster a more sustainable future. Going forward, the SFA is planning to engage more cooperatives in the Green Loan Program through the use of a Learning Management System. This project, co-funded by the ISEAL Innovations Fund and the SFA, will be initiated at the end of 2024 in collaboration with Khan Bank and NARTC.

To learn more about SFA’s research projects and developments in our work programs, please visit the Our Impacts section of the website. To receive regular updates directly to your inbox, make sure to sign up for our quarterly newsletters using the sign-up box in the footer below.

Dr Shalini Raghav

SFA RESEARCH MANAGER

14 November 2024

1 Mongolia Household Debt: % of GDP, 2004 – 2024 | CEIC Data
2 Murphy, D.J., Ichinkhorloo, B., 2023. Index insurance and the moral economy of pastoral risk management in Mongolia. The Journal of Peasant Studies 1–23; Plueckhahn, R. and Bumochir, D., 2018. Capitalism in Mongolia–ideology, practice and ambiguity. Central Asian Survey, 37(3), pp.341-356; Sneath, D., 2012. The ‘age of the market’ and the regime of debt: the role of credit in the transformation of pastoral Mongolia. Social Anthropology 20(4), pp.458-473.

Climate Disaster Impact on Mongolian Cashmere Supply | 2024 Market Overview

Posted by Katy Edwards

This year, in 2024, the global cashmere supply chain experienced an unanticipated challenge due to the natural climate disaster that struck large regions of Mongolia this past winter and early spring. As the world’s second-largest supplier of cashmere, Mongolia was severely affected by the extreme winter weather event known as Dzud, specific to the regions of central and east Asia. Heavy snowfall covered entire regions, forming ice floors underneath the snow drifts, hindering herds from reaching grass and forage, resulting in an over 10% loss of livestock for the country.

According to the 2024 Dzud – Livestock Loss report from the Ministry of Food, Agriculture & Light Industry of Mongolia (MoFALI), 11.5% of the country’s livestock perished due to malnutrition, stamina, and extreme cold, totalling over 7.44 million livestock across the country. Of this total, an estimated 2.5 million goats were recorded to have been lost.

Figure 1. Livestock were unable to reach grasses and forage under the thick layer of snow and ice sheets due to Dzud.

As we continue to extend our support to the affected herders in Mongolia, it is essential to recognise the broader implications for the global cashmere supply chain. This disaster has led to a notable increase in raw cashmere prices due to reduced volume and delayed harvests. During the cashmere season of 2024, the price for raw cashmere fibre rose to 185,000 MNT per kg (approx. £40-£45), up from 165,000 MNT per kg (approx. £36-£38) the previous year. This price hike has resulted in lower purchase quantities by some producers.

Several factors have contributed to this year’s cashmere shortage, some of which are highlighted below:

1. Livestock Loss

The accumulated loss of goats, accounting for around 20% over the past two consecutive years, has drastically decreased the volume of raw Mongolian cashmere available to the market. In 2023, the ‘SFA-certified’ cashmere volume was 1,322 tonnes, while this year, it has reduced to 600 tonnes only, with a maximum expected volume of around 800 tonnes.

2. Delayed Harvesting

The freezing temperatures and longer-lasting cold weather have caused delays in the natural shedding time of cashmere goats, resulting in lower output and decreased fibre quality, with more coarse hair mixed into the greasy fibre.

Vandandorj Sumiya, SFA Mongolia’s Country Coordinator, explains, “As combing is delayed, more coarse hair will be loosened, and greasy cashmere will have higher coarse hair content, thus after dehairing, the clean fibre content will be lesser than that of normal years.” 

Figure 2. Processors receiving 'SFA-certified' dehaired cashmere would not be affected by the upcoming Export Ban.

3. Export Ban

The Mongolian government’s upcoming export ban on non-dehaired cashmere, originally expected to be effective from the 1st of July 2024, could have prompted hasty purchases by non-national processors and driven up prices. However, the government has extended the effective date for this ban to July 2025. Nevertheless, this change would not affect processors supplied with dehaired cashmere from ‘SFA-certified’ sources in Mongolia. Some processing factories scheduled for SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard audits may experience delays this year due to low fibre volumes, which should only cause minimal impact on the sector given the extended export regulation deadline.

4. Climate Risk Resilience

Triggered by climate change, the frequency and severity of natural events such as Dzud have begun to increase. However, with this increase in Dzud occurrences, effective coping and adaptation strategies are still lacking in some of Mongolia’s herding communities, especially in the country’s most remote areas. Climate risk resilience has become a key topic for the SFA this year and was the main theme of discussion during the annual SFA Mongolia Conference, held in Ulaanbaatar at the beginning of September 2024.

Figure 3. Mongolian herding communities received welcome supplies purchased by the SFA and supporting SFA Members.

Each of these factors has played its part, causing a potential ripple effect along the cashmere supply chain and throughout the market this year.

The SFA continues to work closely with herders, supporting them with long-term resilience and sustainability programmes, providing better market access, and mediating preferential financing. Through the continued support of our Members and Chain of Custody Participants, who rallied together at the beginning of the year to provide much-appreciated disaster relief funds, our efforts are now progressing towards establishing the SFA’s Community Development Fund. The fund aims to support targeted interventions to mitigate natural disaster impacts, such as Dzud, improving livelihood resilience and sustainability in herding communities.

The proposed activities of the SFA’s Community Development Fund address the critical issue of recurring climate disasters and the severe impact on herder livelihoods, such as livestock populations, mental and physical health, and providing essential support for female herders and herding communities that have been the most adversely affected. It includes:

  • Providing immediate financial support to fulfil the needs of food and basic amenities for herder communities. 
  • Supporting the community to restock their herd as their main source of income and livelihood activity. 
  • Research and action for continued support to build resilience for such situations through access to finance, livestock insurance, and capacity-building programmes.

Get Involved

By establishing the SFA Community Development Fund, the SFA encourages its Members and Chain of Custody Participants to work together to reduce the impact risk of natural disasters within the supply chains, such as the effects of Dzud and drought. Together we can enhance effectiveness, support socio-economic stability, and strengthen cashmere supply chain resilience against climate change.

Want to be a part of this crucial movement?

Contact us now to start making meaningful changes to strengthen the supply chain and support herder livelihoods. Email info@sustainablefibre.org

To learn more about this year’s Dzud disaster and our efforts to support herder communities, read our previous articles below:

Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

24 September 2024

Training Provided for BIA Programme for Mountainous & Island Areas

Posted by Katy Edwards

The Mountain Partnership, under the United Nations Food & Agriculture Organisation (UN FAO), supported by the Small Grants Programme of the Global Environment Facility (SGP / GEF) and implemented by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), has launched a scholarship programme that aims to support innovative business ventures within agricultural and textile value chains. This programme seeks to enhance the adaption and resilience of local communities in mountainous and island areas through technical assistance and capacity building.

The Business Incubator & Accelerator (BIA) for Mountainous & Island Regions programme is being implemented in countries such as the Dominican Republic, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Fiji, Kyrgyzstan, Mongolia, Nepal, Peru, the Philippines and Uganda. Over 100 manufacturing organisations from these countries are participating in the programme, including six enterprises and cooperatives from Mongolia.

In Mongolia, the SFA is collaborating with the Agricultural Cooperative of Mongolia (AGRI-COOP / NAMAC), the Environment & Development Association JASIL and the Saraana Nature Conservation Foundation to support and empower local cooperatives and herder groups that work with these organisations.

As part of the programme, in May 2024, the SFA Mongolia team and the NART Training & Research Center provided training, practical sessions and technical assistance on the requirements and standards of the cashmere market and on producing high-quality cashmere. Participants of these training sessions include the “Sanjin Bogd” cooperative in the Bayanuul soum of the Gobi-Altai province and the “Karatau” herder group in the Deluun soum of the Bayan-Ulgii province.

Continuing with the training sessions and providing technical assistance, on the 15th of June 2024, the SFA Mongolia team organised a Cashmere Sorting & Preparation Skills Training alongside SFA Good Practice Training sessions for herders of the “Bulgiin Undarga Devshil” and “Yandag Kher Kharuul” cooperatives in Bayandelger soum in the Tuv province.

By participating in these training sessions, herder households have learnt to adopt international best practices and incorporate them into their daily lives, which is crucial for the responsible preparation and supply of high-quality cashmere to international standards.

Translated by Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

5 July 2024

Original posted on 20 June 2024: https://sustainablefibre.mn/archives/8195

Herder Trainings Conducted in Scope of the Eastern Steppe Project

Posted by Katy Edwards

The Promotion of Sustainable Landscapes and Biodiversity Conservation in the Eastern Steppe of Mongolia’s Drylands Project – or Eastern Steppe Project – has begun implementation in nine soums within the provinces of Dornod, Khentii and Sukhbaatar in Mongolia, starting in 2021 and continuing throughout 2025.

Funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF) and in collaboration with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism of Mongolia (MET), World Wildlife Fund (WWF), and the Food & Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FOA), the project aims to contribute to the protection of the fragile ecosystem of the drylands and support the livelihoods and resilience of herder communities in the Eastern Steppe of Mongolia.

Within the scope of the second component of the Project, the SFA are co-implementing the sub-project of the Development of Environmentally Friendly Animal Husbandry by Introducing SFA Certifying, Tracing, & Sorting Systems, supporting partnerships between herder groups and cooperatives, local government, and the private sector, to develop value chains and create access to markets for sustainably produced agricultural products.

The Project carried out Animal Husbandry & Cashmere Fibre Harvesting Code of Practice and Cashmere Sorter competency-based training sessions for herders of cooperatives in Dornod and Sukhbaatar provinces on the 22nd and 23rd of April 2024.

In the scope of the Eastern Steppe Project, the SFA provided training in the Munk-Khaan soum, in the Sukhbaatar province, on the 22nd of April 2024. Over 30 herders of the Ashid-Munkh Bayan cooperative joined the training session where they learnt how to produce primary-sorted cashmere fibre at the household level, as well as understand the requirements for implementing the SFA Animal Husbandry and SFA Cashmere Fibre Harvesting Codes of Practice.

The same training session was provided in the Sukhbaatar soum, in the Sukhbaatar province, and the Matad soum, in the Dornod province, on the 23rd of April 2024, to around 40 herders of the Davsan-Ukhaa and Tenuun-Darkhan cooperatives, supporting and enhancing their knowledge.

The SFA Mongolia team provided further training sessions to the Uulbayan soum, in the Sukhbaatar province, on the 25th of April 2024 and will continue to share and spread the knowledge and information to more herding communities.

Translated by Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

27 June 2024

Original posted on 25 April 2024: https://sustainablefibre.mn/archives/7923

SFA Open Letter to the EU Council | Herder Perspective on PEF

Posted by Katy Edwards

Subject: Herder Perspective on the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF)

Date: 13th June 2024

Dear Council of the European Union,

I am writing to you not only as the CEO and Founder of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) but also on behalf of the millions of herders and herding communities in Mongolia, China, Afghanistan and across the world. We are deeply concerned about the European Council’s movement towards the Green Claims Directive (GCD) and its references to the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF).

The introduction of the PEF legislation and methodology will undoubtedly lead to a rise in greenwashing claims within the fashion industry, as the lack of carbon acknowledgement alongside no social, cultural or biodiversity elements, does not accurately reflect the differences between plastic-derived fibres and natural fibres.

Natural fibres are an important source of income for the world and its millions of Indigenous communities, for example, one-third of Mongolia’s population depends on their livestock, which makes up 80% of a herder’s income. It is this livestock sector in Mongolia that provides food security for the entire population and therefore classes cashmere as a strategic commodity for Mongolia. However, this income would likely diminish if the PEF legislation were to come into effect, and the collateral damage to herders would be catastrophic, as the majority would become impoverished, leading to the end of an indigenous way of life and nomadic culture.

Altansukh Tumee, a cashmere herder and leader of the Bayntol cooperative in Mongolia, said during the Growers Perspective session at the Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) 2023 conference, that “Overcoming these climate issues and keeping animal husbandry sustainable, we have several programmes and financial programmes on this. But since the cashmere alone makes up almost 70% of households’ income, with this income we have to do everything, like paying our children’s school fees and all other things…the Mongolian Government issued soft loans, but because of this shortage of properties to provide as a collateral, we are not able to get that additional funding to improve our livelihoods and to spend the money on livestock husbandry.”

During the Growers Perspective session at NFC, Frances van Hasselt, a mohair grower and designer in South Africa, also said “The biggest problem that we face…is the price volatility at land-level. We are doing all this stuff, we’re getting the standards, and we are 100% supported. But what is unsustainable is that in the mohair industry, from one sale to the next, you do not know what you are going to get for your mohair.”

This new legislation would also see the diminishing of the natural fibre sector over time with a huge decrease of pastoralists and stewards looking after the world’s rangelands. Mongolia has one of the largest intact rangeland habitats in the world, with a unique array of native wildlife. Collectively, these regions are home to a wide range of internationally important animals and plants, many of which are endemic and globally threatened.

Jock Menzies, a wool grower in Australia, said during the same NFC session that “A lot of our neighbours are all getting sold up to cattle farmers that are not continuing to grow wool because the economics are not there for us to continue…We need to make this a lot better because, otherwise, if we are not able to be sustainable we are obviously not going to be able to supply the wool…but also we won’t have the situation where we can do all of the good things to the environment on our land as well. A good farmer plants trees and looks after his environment but if we are not able to do that, because we are not getting paid enough, then that is the first thing that suffers, which is not what we want for the planet.”

If the European Council votes to include the PEF methodology on the 17th of June 2024, the Green Claims Directive will have a significant impact on the survival of many Indigenous communities that depend on livestock herding globally, marginalizing pastoralist practices, and will instead accelerate the growth of fast fashion.

On behalf of cashmere herding communities across Mongolia, China and Afghanistan, we urge the EU to reconsider the use of the current PEF and PEFCR methodology and ensure that this policy truly reflects the impact of the natural fibre sector.

The SFA have joined together with a global collective of herders, farmers and supporters to sign the open letter to the Council of the European Union to ensure the voices of those at the grassroots-level are heard. View the open letter here.

Una Jones

SFA CEO & FOUNDER

21 June 2024

Phase Two of Dzud Support | Aid Delivered to 1,760 Herding Families

Posted by Katy Edwards

With incredibly kind offers and contributions from our international members and partners, the SFA was able to deliver our second phase of aid throughout April 2024, providing much-needed support to the herders of our member cooperatives who had been affected most by the Dzud disaster this winter and early spring.

First Phase of Support

In response to the devastating Dzud situation in Mongolia, the SFA team begun our first phase of support throughout February and March 2024, appealing to all our member factories, not only in Mongolia, but reaching out to all our international members and brands to join the cause.

During this first wave of response, the SFA Mongolia team delivered the below to 8 cooperatives in 5 soums in the Dornod, Sukhbaatar, Khentii and Arkhangai provinces:

  • 60 tons of protein feed.
  • 400 litres of beneficial microorganism liquid supplement.
  • 560 fuel vouchers worth 20,000 MNT.
  • 250 blankets / jackets for newborn goats and animals.

To learn more about what Dzud is, the different variations, how it affects people, animals and the environment, take a look at our previous article titled Dzud Hits Mongolia | Devastating Conditions for Livestock & Herders.

Second Phase of Support

Throughout April 2024, and with continued support from SFA member brands and companies internationally, the SFA Mongolia team delivered further aid and provisions to 300,000 livestock animals of 1,760 herding households in 20 cooperatives and across 12 soums in the Khentii, Sukhbaatar and Dornod provinces, which had suffered the the most from the Dzud disaster. The aid delivered during the second phase consisted of:

  • 26,880 kg of mineral fodder.
  • 1,460 blankets / jackets.
  • 4,380 kg of powder milk supplements for newborn goats and animals.
  • 14,200 kg of flour.
  • 10,000 kg of rice.

According to this report on the Dzud livestock loss in Mongolia, the country has suffered a loss of 11.46% livestock as of the beginning of May 2024, with a total number reaching a devastating 7.41 million. This data was issued by Mongolian government organisations, such as the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Light Industry (MOFALI), the National Agency Meteorology and the Environmental Monitoring (NAMEM), the State Emergency Commission, the United Nations Humanitarian Country Team (HCT) and the United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA).

Wildlife Support

Protecting biodiversity and conservation of habitat is one our five key principles of the SFA standards. Due to the harsh climate conditions, herbivore wildlife across many of the regions of Mongolia were severely affected with the lack of vegetation available for grazing leading to high death rates. Many of the animals ventured down from the mountains in search of food, travelling long distances to do so. Therefore, alongside provisions for herder communities and their livestock, the SFA Mongolia team transported and distributed 2,000 kg of nutritious grass hay bales and 2,000 kg of salt minerals to key corridors for native herbivore wildlife, such as red deer, gazelle and roe deer.

Continual Support

From everyone at the SFA, we would like to say a huge thank you for the generous donations and kind offers of support from our members and partners. We are proud to announce that we have raised over £153,000 so far for the SFA’s Dzud emergency fund effort.

“Alongside the emergency fund to help with the immediate disaster relief, we have established a Community Development Fund to support the recovery of herders affected by climate crises, such as dzud. The longer-term planning is crucial to strengthen the capacity and capability of herder organisations in disaster preparedness, risk management and improved governance. The impacts of climate change are increasing in intensity and frequency across the country.”

Una Jones, SFA CEO & Founder.

As part of our next steps and actions, we are planning to carry out a comprehensive socio-economic research study in understanding climate risk impact, with specific focus on dzud risk and diverse drivers of herder resilience, as a critical way to better support herder communities and build better systems changes holistically.

If you would like to learn more about the SFA’s efforts in supporting herders and building climate risk resilience, then please do reach out to the team below. Additionally, we will be hosting a Disaster Risk Committee Consultation meeting and are encourage anyone who would like to support herder’s climate risk resilience to join the discussion and get involved. Please email the team at info@sustainablefibre.org to find out more.

Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

4 June 2024

SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0 Public Consultation is Now Open

Posted by Katy Edwards

Update: This public consultation has now closed.

The SFA has opened public consultation on our draft SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0 and we are seeking feedback on the new proposed draft from all stakeholders and members of the public. Learn more about how to participate and provide feedback below…

Online Feedback Form

Please support us and provide your feedback on all aspects of the draft SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0 by clicking on the button below and completing our online feedback form.

All relevant documents can be found at the top of the form or at the bottom of this article.

Consultation on Draft SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0

Alternatively, if you are unable to complete the online feedback form for any reason, feel you are unable to participate due to a language barrier or have any other questions, then please do contact us at standards@sustainablefibre.org and we will do our best to accommodate your request.

Draft SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0 & Consultation Documents

Before filling out the online feedback form, we ask that you first read the draft version of the SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0, as well as our Consultation Document as it explains in detail why we are doing this work.

Click the buttons below to read these documents, or find them at the top of the online feedback form where Mongolian and Chinese versions of the Consultation Document are also available.

SFA Cashmere Standard v2.0
Consultation Document

The standard review is being conducted as per the SFA’s Standard Setting Procedure, which follows ISEAL’s code of good practice on Standard Setting. Decisions are made by the Standard Setting and Improvement Committee (SSIC).

Many thanks,

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA)

Katy Edwards

SFA MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

Updated: 5 August 2024

What Does Decent Work Mean to Women Herders in Rural Mongolia?

Posted by Katy Edwards

In 2022, on behalf of the SFA, María E. Fernández-Giménez with the assistance of Tugsbuyan Bayarbat, Chantsallkham Jamsranjav and Tungalag Ulambayar hosted a series of participatory workshops with women herders from Mongolia’s Arkhangai and Bayankhongor provinces. Discussing what decent work meant to them, the sessions looked at how women herders relate to their work – characterised by a connection with nature, their herd, the family unit, their community and the wider Mongolian population.

What does decent work mean?

Broadly speaking, it relates to employees earning a sufficient income from the work they do in a fair and safe environment, and while it might have different meanings depending on geography, culture and economic development, the term decent work is somewhat rigid in its definition. The International Labour Organisation (ILO) defines decent work as “productive work for women and men in conditions of freedom, equity, security and human dignity”, with the four pillars of their Decent Work Agenda  – employment creation, social protection, rights at work, and social dialogue – pivotal in the development of The United Nations’ (UN) Sustainable Development Goals’ (SDGs); Goal Eight is Decent work and Economic Growth.

Access to decent work is one of the Five Global Principles of the SFA’s Cashmere Standard and ensures ‘fair hiring practices and working conditions, equality in wages, the protection of traditional communities, the prevention of child labour, gender equality and the promotion of health and safety’. The Principle is also guided by the eradication of forced labour, while ensuring equal pay and decision-making roles for women. Developed inline with the ILO’s own definition, the SFA’s Decent Work Principle often applies to communities that live in remote, rural locations which can be a regulatory challenge. However, conversations across the supply chain are important in addressing such challenges, as they capture the realities of herders’ working lives. They also provide vital insight for standards such as the SFA’s by contextualising the nuances of herders’ own definitions of decent work within their day-to-day – something that might not necessarily be captured by international development agencies.

Conversations from the workshops highlighted two overarching themes: the definition of what decent work meant to the women in a practical sense, and how the societal expectations impact the women’s access to it. The facilitators used themes inline with, but not exclusive to, the ILO’s Decent Work Agenda to discuss their definition of decent work. This covered the women’s opinions on meaningful and productive work in healthy and safe environments, as well as freedom from abuse, harassment and discrimination, social protection and security, social dialogue, cooperation and opportunities for professional development and learning.

It’s widely accepted that herding in Mongolia is more than just a livelihood, it’s a way of life that brings meaning, a sense of identity, culture and tradition – it’s an occupation that creates feelings of dignity, pride and purpose – especially when the work is valued and respected by the wider society; an important component of the global understanding of decent work. Discussing the position of herders in modern Mongolia, the participants noted how respect for herders and the herder lifestyle had dwindled in recent years, with young people increasingly opting to live in urban areas in pursuit of life away from rural pastoralism. According to The International Organization for Migration (IOM), this is a countrywide shift, with dramatic rural-to-urban migration raising the capital Ulaanbaatar’s population to almost 1.5 million – half of the entire country’s total population. With this migration, the women feared the loss of their culture and tradition, emphasising a lack of cultural education and a disconnect between those living rurally and in urban environments. The development of a more secure rural economy was just one of many suggestions the women made in reference to not only encouraging people back to the countryside, but also as a means to secure productive work and income year-round from their livestock. They also touched on the prospect of alternative rural employment as another solution. Interestingly, the women intrinsically linked decent work and productivity, raising a further five points that they thought vital to their access to both:

  • Stable and sufficient income from livestock. 
  • Access to the means of production (seasonal pasture lands, water and minerals, shelters and corrals (animal pens) and livestock).
  • Access to the knowledge and the information they needed to work.
  • Fair and timely pay for hired herders.
  • Protection from climate hazards.

It’s important to understand that cashmere is just one of several income streams for Mongolian herders who herd a mix of goats, sheep, cattle, camels and yaks – dependent on their geography. The mixed herds provide a range of produce ranging from cashmere fibre to meat and dairy, and generate seasonal income throughout the year. As Mongolian herders are predominantly reliant on this produce, access to resources and means of production is paramount to their access to decent work year round. A great example of this was discussed by the workshop participants from Arkhangai. The women spoke of their relative success in adding value to their produce through the production of ‘fancy’ aaruul (a traditional Mongolian curd cheese) which they sold directly to customers in the capital and other cities across Mongolia. They keenly noted that aaruul, along with sales from other such value-added dairy products, accounted for roughly 80% of their household income. In a later discussion regarding the production of value-added produce and their access to opportunities for professional development and learning, the women all strongly desired increased access to vocational training, forums and knowledge sharing in order to independently improve the earning potential of their produce.

Another important factor that sits front and centre of both international and more localised decent work agendas is the impact of climate change and the realities of its effect on rural pastoralists. With a changing climate, fragile ecosystems, such as those seen in Mongolia, are already dealing with the brunt of more extreme weather. According to Save the Children, Mongolia is one of the most vulnerable countries to climate change, with a significant rise in dzuds – catastrophic weather events when a drought in the warmer months is followed by extreme temperature drops and snowfall. In the past, dzuds were known to occur once every decade or so, however in recent years they have become much more common. The National Agency of Meteorology and the Environmental Monitoring (NAMEM) of Mongolia reported that as of February 2024, a total of 80% of the country has been in a dzud weather disaster, with iron- / glass-dzud hitting regions covering 58 soums, across 13 provinces of Mongolia. The snow fall, along with the fatally low temperatures, restricts livestocks’ access to food, creating significant challenges for herders. When discussing the impact of dzuds, long term weather forecasts was one way the participants said could help them in their preparations, with the groups all in agreement that such pre-warnings would allow them to stockpile hay for the animals, as well ensuring appropriate access to shelters.

While much of the discussions focused on the welfare of the land and livestock in the herder context, the women also spoke of the challenges they’d experienced with their own and other’s health and safety whilst working – a core component of the Decent Work Agenda. The ILO’s International Labour Standard on occupational safety and health states the importance of how ‘workers must be protected from sickness, disease and injury arising from their employment’. It also understands that this might not be the case for millions of workers worldwide – with some difficulties arising when the lines are blurred between the workplace and home and when income streams are seasonal. Using cashmere as an example, cashmere is harvested in the spring, over a course of a few months. Within that period, tens of millions of goats across the country are harvested for their fibre. This level of intensity can create a number of challenges with respect to health and safety, especially as the home and workplace, as previously mentioned, are one and the same. The women spoke about a number of issues including the importance of ‘safe and healthy working conditions that promote mental wellbeing and limit excess stress’ as well as ‘ensuring the work is appropriate for the ability and age of the person doing it’. The women, especially those from Arkhangai, expressed how taking time away from work and vacations played an important role in the reduction of workplace stress, especially as all the women agreed about the impact of their ‘triple labour burden’ – caring for the livestock, children and the elderly, the processing dairy products and housekeeping. It’s customary for children, especially adolescents, to support their family by helping with milking, cashmere harvesting and the processing of products from the animals, alongside caring for younger siblings. The workshop participants, worryingly, identified how children, especially boys, were increasingly being removed from school too soon in order to do so, thus not finishing their education. With respect to decent work, many of the women mentioned the importance of education for children, especially how the education of their children in soum centres (a community and commercial centres with access to facilities, education and commercial opportunities) played a significant role in their development. Soum centres have dormitories for children to attend school, however if those spaces are full, the women are expected to stay with the children, which was noted to potentially create marital stress. As the family and labour unit are the same, this can often lead to children being educated at home – another addition to the triple labour burden.

Another important factor raised by the participants was how the triple labour burden impacted their ability to access health care, due to time constraints along with a number of other obstacles. Some noted how health insurance was too expensive for them, while most of the women complained about how health care was not readily available, with doctors appointments difficult to obtain. They also discussed how they didn’t have confidence in the training of the bag (a smaller division of the soum) and soum doctors available to them – with many expressing worry about mis-diagnosis and dismissals of their symptoms. This, combined with their remote locations, presented a very real concern for the women, especially with respect to access to vaccinations, regular check ups and other preventative care and screenings.

In the context of community cooperatives and collectives, women across the various groups emphasised the critical need for organisations representing herders’ rights. These organisations would address pressing issues such as the loss of grazing lands, environmental degradation, inadequate access to health and veterinary services, and the absence of preschool facilities in remote rural areas. Particularly, they underscored the necessity for representation specifically tailored to women herders. Due to the triple labour burden the women highlighted the profound social isolation they sometimes experienced. They also expressed a desire for increased opportunities to participate in community and cultural events, seeking avenues for social connection and engagement. There was also a recurrent observation regarding the shift in herder culture towards individualism, which they saw to have eroded traditional forms of community solidarity, collective work, cooperation, and mutual support. While some communities still maintain these traditions, others have experienced a decline, impacting both local and global perspectives on accessing decent work opportunities. These observations underscore the importance of revitalising and preserving communal values to foster more inclusive and sustainable decent work for women herders.

The insights gleaned from discussions between the workshop facilitators and the women herders immediately shed light on something interesting. In terms of the ILO’s approach to decent work, which is categorised under somewhat rigid frameworks, the women herders held a more holistic perspective on what constitutes decent work. From their perspective, decent work relied heavily on the interdependent integration of human, environmental and livestock health and wellbeing.

The participants emphasised the importance of:

  • The health of the environment in which they do the work.
  • The health of the livestock on which their livelihoods depend, and which in turn depend on a healthy environment.
  • Human health and wellbeing – which is also linked to the two previous points.

These points prompt reflection on the potential gap between global standards and the realities and requirements of herders, especially women, in Mongolia’s countryside. However, it also offers an opportunity for organisations like the SFA, which use international standards to craft their own standards, to develop an approach to decent work that makes use of insights from both ends of the spectrum.

Learn more about how the SFA incorporates decent work practices into their standards here.

Lotti Blades-Barrett

8 March 2024

Dzud Hits Mongolia | Devastating Conditions for Livestock & Herders

Posted by Katy Edwards

The National Agency Meteorology and the Environmental Monitoring (NAMEM) of Mongolia reports that as of February 2024, a total of 80% of the country is in a “Dzud” weather disaster, with Iron / Glass Dzud hitting regions covering 58 soums, across 13 provinces.

According to the National Emergency Management Agency (NEMA) report on the 26th of February 2024, the loss of livestock reached 2.3 million, an 86% increase compared to the same period last year.

Map showing areas affected by Dzud in Mongolia and their severity level on the 10th February 2024.
Reference NAMEM.

What is Dzud?

Mainly occurring in steppe regions of central and east Asia, Dzud is a winter weather phenomenon in which deep snow, severe cold, or other conditions render forage unavailable or inaccessible, leading to high livestock mortality. Dzud is considered a disaster due to its effects on livestock populations that support the livelihoods of a third of Mongolia’s population.

Not just leading to a disastrous number of livestock loss, Dzud can also threaten human lives as it makes travel conditions and transportation impossible. Food, drink, fuel, medicine, and other necessities quickly become unreachable for a period beyond the regular supply reserves of households. The devastation it brings can have a turning impact on household livelihoods, as well as local and national economies.

There are many types of Dzud, from White Dzud and Cold Dzud to Black Dzud and
Hooves Dzud, each with their own extreme conditions and harsh weather affects.

Each type of Dzud brings its own extreme level of conditions that challenge herders beyond their provisions for already harsh Mongolian winters. Although not regular in occurrence, scientists documented changes in regional climate in the past 60 years and predict that Dzud will likely increase in frequency and magnitude with future atmospheric changes.

How does Dzud affect animals?

With this year’s disaster hitting especially hard, Mongolia is expected to see more snowfall throughout the beginning of March. With this, animal mortality will reach devastating numbers due to the lack of feed and water, combined with the extreme cold, as herders exhaust their winter reserves.

Records warn that a tough spring is likely to  follow these harsh Dzud conditions, with storms, blizzards, and floods causing a late arrival of fresh grass. Herders will need intense strength as they start to approach offspring season and prepare for already weakened survivor herds following the Dzud disaster.

How does Dzud affect people?

Herder communities and their families are physically affected by the Dzud with road blockades making it difficult to reach water, food, fuel, and to stock up on supplies. Additionally, being cut off from medical and emergency services can cause serious situations for those who need it.

With a shortage of cash on hand, many herders will try to restock these necessities by exploiting an advance sales payment for their upcoming cashmere harvest. Burdening to their already decreased harvest in the spring, this will affect them financially during the cashmere season with a loss on actual market price.

Besides livestock and financial loss, herders will suffer from stress and mental well-being as an outcome of these tough conditions. Especially young herders, who need moral support to cope with the loss and devastation. In many cases, herders face a total loss of livestock that will likely force many to migrate to urban settlements, adding to the already overpopulated slums and poverty in the city.

How can we help?

The Mongolia government, managed by the State Emergency Commission, began immediate response to the disaster situation by making roads accessible, distributing hays, fodders for animals, and necessary relief to herders. However, despite government measures and aid from international donor organisations, more assistance in parallel is needed to reach and support all households to mitigate animal and livestock losses effectively.

Utilising knowledge and previous experiences from reports such as “Lessons from the Dzud” (co-written by SFA founder Batkhishig Baival), we are informed through science on how best to adapt and increase resilience in these disastrous situations. The report recommends that short-term aid relief should link to sustainable long-term development support. In line with the recommendations presented in this report, the SFA has begun initiating immediate aid for SFA herder organisations in the regions that have been hit hardest. Through organised coordination with local governments and herder communities, the SFA Mongolia team begun distributing vital animal feed and supplies this week to six SFA herder organisations spread across three soums in the north-eastern provinces.

Animal feed is purchased with support from
SFA brand members and partners.
SFA Mongolia team distributes animal feed to
herder organisations in worst hit areas.

The SFA works with established herder organisations that consist of multiple herding families in a communal grazing area, supporting them in governance, capacity building, and participatory planning to bring benefits to their livelihood. Find out more about how we support herder livelihoods and more through our work and standards here.

Throughout the last week, we have begun raising funds internally with incredible support from SFA members and partners to look to purchase and deliver essential items, such as fodders, blankets for animals, salt, supplements, batteries, medicines, and milk supplements for newborn animals. These items are purchased from local suppliers at the province level and handed over to herder organisation leaders, ensuring efficient distribution to herders in need, as well as supporting local businesses.

Supplies are delivered to the heads of SFA herder organisations,
who will distribute out to their member households.
Certificate of appreciation is received from Khentii province government, with thanks to SFA Mongolia and our members.

Thank you to SFA Members & Partners

On behalf of our SFA herders and herder organisations, we would like to say a huge thank you to all our brand and retailer members, chain of custody participants and partners who have already reached out to us with amazing offers of support. Without your generous donations and joint efforts, we wouldn’t be able to support our herder households in working to overcome the Dzud disaster by providing much-needed moral support.

Ms Narantsetseg, head of the Yavin-Bulag herder cooperative, of Umnudelger soum Khentii Province, expressed profound gratitude for the aid received via video call to the SFA Mongolia & UK team:

“It is the first aid we receive for the entire soum. The cube feeds are crucial for this time. We are distributing them to co-op members and begging Mother Nature to turn the season soon. Thank you SFA for the aid!”

While initial relief efforts have garnered commendation from local authorities, the road ahead remains fraught with challenges. The SFA aid campaign is ongoing and calling members and other partners in the natural fibre industry for support. If you would like to get involved with our Dzud natural disaster plan and emergency fund, please contact info@sustainablefibre.org.

A Mongolian proverb says:

“It is worth helping with a single needle when in need, rather than a whole camel in time of prosperity.”

Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

29 February 2024

Ensure Your Supply Chain is Certified Against the SFA CFPS

Posted by Katy Edwards

It is SFA policy that only cashmere that has been dehaired and scoured in compliance with the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard (CFPS) can be considered to be ‘SFA Certified’. The timeline has now been defined and primary processors will have until 1st November 2024 to become certified. In order to achieve this deadline, please reach out to your supply chains and make sure they are certified, as after this date they will no longer be able to supply ‘SFA Certified’ cashmere without CFPS certification. Additionally, we will be providing training for CFPS over the next few months, so please do reach out to us at info@sustainablefibre.org if organisations within your supply chain would like to attend.

To help you communicate the benefits of certification and the process for getting certified, we have created the guide below. Please share it with your supply chain and encourage them to get certified as soon as possible.

What is the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard?

The SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard has been developed for primary processing plants that sort, scour (wash) and de-hair raw cashmere fibres. The requirements are focused on the reduction and elimination of harmful chemicals such as APEOs in line with ZDHC’s MRSL, efficient use of energy and water, and ensuring safe and fair working environments.

The standard can be applied to processing plants that sort, prepare, scour and / or de-hair cashmere fibre along with the environmental, social and supply chain elements of the business that run alongside these operations. This helps to provide economic growth for herders and the supply chain, as processes such as sorting help to increase the value of fibres. This continuous improvement within your supply chain, supported by the standard, will allow for better measuring and monitoring in key areas such as carbon reduction.

It is split into different units for each of these processes, and processing plants must achieve compliance in all units that are relevant to its function. By becoming certified against the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard, your supply chain is proving that it is committed to the following principles:


SOCIAL & ETHICAL RESPONSIBILITIES

  • Fair labour & working conditions
  • No child labour
  • Health, safety & hygiene


ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY

  • Safe use of chemicals & hazardous substances
  • No APEOs
  • Energy & water usage
  • Controlled environmental waste management

SUPPLY CHAIN & BUSINESS OPERATIONS

  • Long-term economic growth
  • Economic value for herders & supply chain
  • Accountability & effective management through KPIs

What are the Benefits of Certification?

1. Increased value through SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard

The SFA offers the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard as a way for the primary processors in your supply chain to demonstrate their commitment to, and success in, meeting environmental and workplace best practice. Achieving this allows primary processors to sell SFA Certified fibre as part of the Chain of Custody. The SFA also provides support, training, and assessments in the Standard.

2. Increased value through SFA Chain of Custody

To meet the growing consumer expectations for transparency and sustainably produced goods, the SFA has implemented a Chain of Custody within its Standards. This allows the primary processors within your supply chain to validate their fibres as those originating from certified sources and attain greater value. This ensures that you, and other buyers along the supply chain, can trace the certified status of your purchases.

3. Links to fibre producers

Primary processors, who are SFA certified, gain access to cashmere-connect.com where they are visible to Mongolian herder organisations and can access valuable information about them. Events such as the “Herding Organisation & Processor Meet & Greet”, which promotes collaboration between processors and herders, are also open to certified members. These offerings have been invaluable during global events like the Covid pandemic, when traders who usually facilitate the connections were unable to travel.

4. Market links

Access to cashmere-connect.com also provides visibility to other SFA members and Chain of Custody participants. The platform displays business contact details and in addition, certain processors may disclose the quantity of raw fibre they currently have in stock. It helps to promote trust between buyers and sellers of the cashmere sector through a common Standard.

5. Focused training

Through the Clean Fibre Processing Standard, the SFA offers training sessions and in-depth training manuals across all three areas of cashmere fibre primary processing. These are:

  • Sorting
  • Scouring
  • Dehairing

We will be providing training over the next few months, so please do reach out to us at info@sustainablefibre.org if organisations within your supply chain would like to attend.

6. Invitations to SFA events

In addition to providing training on our Standards, the SFA offers many networking events, member meetings and conferences. Certified processors are also given the opportunity to speak at SFA conferences to present their perspectives on diverse topics related to the cashmere sector.

7. Greater understanding of their agency as cashmere processors

The main objective of the SFA is to promote the sustainable and responsible production of cashmere that adheres to global standards. In pursuit of this objective, the SFA encourages processors to source and process responsibly in order to add value and reputation as well as continuous improvement to bring social and environmental change. Additionally, an emphasis is placed on operating efficiently and transparently to ensure accountability within the industry and your own supply chain to help bring about better measuring and monitoring.

8. Be better informed about opportunities to integrate SFA Standards

The SFA’s grassroots approach involves actively engaging with those who adhere to the SFA Standards into their day-to-day operations. Feedback from processors on how to demonstrate compliance and show improvements, including inputs on practical limitations, play a pivotal role in forming and refining the SFA requirements.

How do they become certified?

1. Register with the SFA

First and foremost, if the primary processors within your supply chain are looking for certification against the SFA Chain of Custody and / or Textile Exchange Content Claim Standard to produce, process and/or trade ‘SFA Certified’ fibre they must register with the SFA. Registering with the SFA will generate a unique reference number for their company.

To get started, they need to email membership@sustainablefibre.org.

2. Find a Conformity Assessment Body (CAB)

Conformity Assessment Bodies (CABs) are independent third parties accredited to carrying out certification and other activities related to the assurance of certification schemes. The list of CABs approved to conduct certification activities for the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard and SFA Chain of Custody can be found here on the SFA website.

3. Complete an assessment and, if they’re successful, become certified

Their chosen CAB will be able to provide more information on the certification process including how long it takes and costs.

Is your supply chain certified ready?

With the information provided above on the benefits and process of becoming certified against the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Standard and SFA Chain of Custody, we do hope that you reach out to your supply chains over the coming months to ensure that they are certified and have their relevant scope certificates come 1st November 2024 to help keep your supply chain running smoothly.

Katy Edwards

SFA MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

26 January 2024

What Makes Cashmere, Cashmere?

Posted by Katy Edwards

Unravel cashmere's unique qualities and their role in the responsible production of cashmere.

The insurance of high-quality cashmere fibre is one of a number of important factors that feed into its responsible production – the core of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance’s (SFA) mission. Achieving gold standard sustainable fibre should exist in conjunction with the commercial interests of the sector. However, such an outcome depends on an approach that holistically focuses on a number of key environmental, welfare and production areas – it also takes time, which does not often work well in the context of fast fashion. In this article, we are going to explore how cashmere’s properties, origins and qualities play a significant role in steering the industry’s longevity and authenticity, alongside reducing its environmental and social impact.

Cashmere is combed or sheared from cashmere goats predominantly herded or farmed on arid plains in China, Mongolia and Afghanistan. High-quality cashmere relies on the seasonal, subzero temperatures of these environments for goats to grow the insulating undercoats that the fibre is harvested from. Cashmere is world-renowned for its softness, warmth, elasticity and, when knitted or woven, its ability to keep its shape. Once recognised for its exclusivity, cashmere is now a high street and supermarket staple and is available to suit more democratised price points. However, the casualty of quantity is quality, with lower-grade fibres added to the mix to meet the growing demand for cheaper, faster fashion.

Cashmere’s unique qualities stem from a number of core, measurable properties including fineness (the fibre’s diametre), length, colour and crimp, which vary depending on a number of factors including the age, breed and welfare of cashmere goats, their environment and the way in which the fibre is harvested, stored and processed. The standards for the welfare of cashmere goats vary depending on their location, but all prioritise the natural behaviours of cashmere herds and their mental wellbeing, access to good quality food, clean water and shelter when required. In Mongolia, the welfare of cashmere goats is intrinsically linked to the quality of their natural environment, which has come under strain due to climate change and overgrazing. Ensuring the preservation of the goats’ natural habitat is dependent on effective herd management and regenerative herding practices to ensure grasslands are utilised and maintained in line with nature, not against it. Effective Management and Animal Welfare, along with preservation and improvement of good quality cashmere fibre are three of the five Global Principles outlined by the SFA’s Cashmere Standard for the responsible production of cashmere. The continued decline of cashmere fibre is a direct symptom of overconsumption and poses a significant threat to the livelihoods and prosperity of cashmere herders, as well as to the integrity and longevity of cashmere fabric. By committing to improving fibre quality, the SFA aims to secure livelihoods for cashmere herders, enabling them to maintain their traditional way of life with incomes that can sustain them. Furthermore, it sits at the heart of the SFA’s call-to-action for developing sustainable cashmere supply chains in line with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), to eradicate poverty (Goal One) and to encourage and incentivise the sustainable production and consumption of cashmere fibre (Goal Twelve). However, improving cashmere fibre quality is not a simple fix and it takes time to see marked differences, especially as cashmere goats produce harvests just once a year. In line with the SFA’s Cashmere Standard, there are a number of key areas that herders need to focus on in order to maximise on fibre quality including responsibly breeding goats that produce good quality fibre, knowledge sharing between herder communities, and monitoring and adapting their methods depending on the outcome of their annual harvest. Knowledge sharing is especially important in the context of environmental responsibility, not only in cashmere, but across the entirety of the fashion sector and other global industries. Applying effective knowledge and methods to one group is good, but sharing such insight across an expanse of groups and communities is excellent. This is how long lasting sector-wide sustainable impact is made.

The key to unlocking high quality, high grade cashmere fibre – graded from A to C, depends on the aforementioned environmental and welfare conditions goats reside in, but it also depends on several other external factors. For instance, the way in which the fibre is sorted and stored. The age and colour of goats are important to the overarching quality of fibre and, in mixed herds, the SFA Cashmere Standard ensures that fibres are sorted and stored with this in mind to separate different grades of cashmere fibre. Fibres are also stored using materials that reduce the likelihood of contamination, be that via fragments from the storage itself – such as fragile polypropylene bags, or other foreign, biological materials.

To protect the integrity of cashmere fibre, fibres are tested in laboratory settings to ensure the quality and authenticity of cashmere goods. Industry leaders such as the CCMI and SGS respectively promote and use various technologies, like optical and scanning electron microscopes to check fibre scales, along with other properties such as fibre fineness in order to test these perimetres, identifying products that are falsely labelled via fibre blends or fibre qualities that are below industry standards.

When asked: ‘How does effective fibre testing and identification have an impact on the cashmere’s industry progression toward increased sustainability?’ CCMI’s President Fabio Garzena responded:

“Testing methods – microscopy before and more recently instrumental methods like proteomics and DNA had, have and will have a direct impact on the sustainability of the fibre. If the cashmere wasn’t recognised as such by testing or if its value and integrity wasn’t protected in the past and now, and hopefully in the future (mainly by the action of CCMI and its members), the cashmere industry would have not been sustainable and the value chain and its viability could have been compromised. Today we associate the concept of “sustainability” with animal welfare, grassland management and soil degradation, but these important aspects are the most recent of many challenges that the entire cashmere industry has faced, is still facing, and will face.

There is still a need for further innovations in testing technology. Today, we lack a reliable quantitative methodology to measure the blends of recycled and virgin cashmere. Even qualitative evaluations are not reliable or standardised. Recycled cashmere is cashmere, but of course has a lower quality compared to virgin cashmere, however most of the recycled cashmere is not sold as such to consumers, which are unaware of what they are buying. This is not transparent for consumers and is unfair competition for the supply chain that lives on virgin cashmere and is producing the cashmere that will be recycled in the future.

Everything is “sustainability”: some aspects or past challenges have been resolved only because they have become “business as usual”, but cannot be ignored, but managed daily. Current “sustainability” efforts are more challenging because they need more network integration and collaboration, which is complex and needs time and compromises to be accepted by everyone.”

When mentioning significant trends or changes in cashmere fibre testing, and whether fibre quality or purity has changed over recent years, Fabio said:

“During the last decade there have been various, very important innovations in the testing technologies related to animal fibers recognition and quantification, which of course includes cashmere. Proteomics methods have been developed and standardised and their use is and will get more widespread with the reduction of their cost (already similar to traditional microscopy). Such instrumental methodology has resolved, once and for all, the issue of distinguishing cashmere from yak or very fine wool with a fully objective method (an improved DNA based method will add further tools in this direction). Microscopy of course is objective but relies on technicians’ skill, so is very difficult to master. Instrumental analysis requires training and investments in expensive equipment, but can scale up easier if needed.

About quality and purity, these are concepts that depend on where and when we consider such features: quality of cashmere might be slightly reduced compared to the past, but this has nothing to do with purity. Purity is a concept related to manufacturing in all the different stages of the supply chain, of course without considering “intentional blends” made with fraudulent intent. For those cases of course testing technology have been an extremely important tool.”

The fineness of cashmere fibre is defined by the fibre’s diameter, measured in microns – a micron is one millionth of a metre (µm). The micron count of cashmere fibre can measure anywhere from 15 microns to 19 microns, with some super fine cashmere measuring as low as 14 microns from adult goats. For context, The International Wool Textile Organisation states wool fibres can range from 17 microns for super fine merino wool to 40 microns for much coarser wool used in carpets and hard wearing textiles. The fineness of cashmere fibre is what makes it soft and gentle on skin, with finer fibres achieving higher premiums. Fibres with higher micron counts such as wool are known for their irritation when worn next to skin. In contrast, cashmere’s fineness reduces irritation and increases practical versatility with a range of applications in garment and accessory design and production.

A much sought after, super fine cashmere, reserved only for the upper echelons of the luxury market – is baby cashmere – cashmere harvested from kids less than one year old. As goats mature their fibre thickens, but young kids produce cashmere with an average micron count of just 13.5 microns, which takes an entire season to produce just 30 grams. For context, an adult cashmere goat produces on average over 110 grams per growing season, so baby cashmere is an extremely rare and expensive fibre.

Another defining feature of cashmere quality is the length of the fibre – known as the ‘staple length’ – with lengths ranging from approximately 28mm to 42mm. The longer the staple lengths the higher the quality, because longer fibres are easier to spin and produce stronger yarns, fabrics and clothing that are more resistant to pilling (the bulbs that form in areas of high friction). Longer fibres also allow cashmere garments and fabrics to retain their shape better, with shorter fibres producing more fragile garments that have a more common tendency to stretch after wear and washing – feeding into the unsustainability of fast, throwaway fashion.

Multiple studies have identified how harvesting methods can impact fibre length, with industry leaders preferring the traditional combing method over shearing. Combing is when the fine cashmere undercoat is gently removed from the goat’s coarser guard coat during shedding season and naturally maintains the entirety of the fibre’s length, while reducing the removal of coarser guard hairs. Cashmere purity refers to the ratio of fine cashmere fibre to coarser guard hair exceeding the 30 micron limit. As identified by the CCMI, classified cashmere garments and fabrics should not contain more than 3% (by weight) of cashmere fibres above this limit. By shearing, coarser guard hairs are more prominent in harvests.

Cashmere is lauded for its ability to take dyes and retain its colour fastness – the capacity of materials to keep their colour. Lighter cashmere fibres are more versatile with respect to this and are therefore seen to be more valuable. White fibres, the industry’s gold standard, remove or reduce the need for bleaching at the dye phase and provide a wider variety of colour options. For darker fibres, bleaching is a necessity but can be harsh on fibres and can therefore impact the strength of the fibres in the long run. However, white cashmere fibre is not a natural norm and is most easily attained in a controlled farm setting, such as those seen in China. Cashmere goats herded in Mongolia and Afghanistan as a part of traditional pastoral lifestyles vary greatly in colour, with fewer white goats set against herds ranging from greys, browns and sometimes black. Mongolia’s national herd is known for its grey and brown goats, while Afghanistan’s herd is darker again, with goats producing grey, dark brown and sometimes black fibres. Selective breeding is one way the SFA is working with herders towards increased fibre quality, which involves the breeding of goats with fibres in a range of colours that are longer, finer and with higher levels of crimp.

Crimp refers to the natural waves of cashmere fibres, with higher crimp more prominent in finer fibres. Cashmere fibres are naturally wavy, providing essential insulation for goats raised in cold climates. Fibres with increased levels of crimp are of a higher standard and are linked to cashmere’s elasticity and the aforementioned insulation properties. Higher crimp not only increases insulation through the capture of heat bubbles in the wave, but it also enables fibres to lock together more effectively during the yarn spinning phase of production. Crimp is also known to give cashmere its loftiness and famously luxurious drape.

While setting the precedent for the continuation and increased flow of high quality cashmere fibre should be set by the cashmere industry itself, the consumer still has a significant role to play. Due to the nature of cashmere, it should not play a role in any decisions to impulse buy. Investing in pieces that last and are well made from high quality, responsibly sourced materials is paramount to the move to more environmentally and ethically sustainable fashion and textiles. While consumers might not have access to in-depth technical information, understanding the journey of cashmere and the importance of fibre quality for the sustainability of the cashmere industry is integral to making responsible purchasing decisions.

Lotti Blades-Barrett

22 January 2024

2023 Highlights

Posted by Katy Edwards
231213_SM Options for Holidays & New Year_v1

Welcome to the SFA’s annual highlights where we look back and reflect on our journey over the past year!

2023 has been both busy and productive, seeing us reach significant milestones and growth whilst striving towards more responsible impacts at every step. Let’s dive into the key highlights that have defined this impactful year…

A Year of Progress & Collaboration

From ground-breaking conferences to transformative launches, this year has been a whirlwind of activity for the SFA. We’ve proudly welcomed 14 new members in 2023, bringing our total membership to 64, representing a global collaboration across 13 countries. Each member contributes valuable insights, fostering a collective commitment to advancing sustainability within the cashmere sector.

Mongolian Herder Organisations & Certified Farms in China

By year-end, we have 193 registered herder organisations in Mongolia, covering around 16,297 herder households, as well as 13,587 certified farms in China. This accounts for 1,322 tonnes of certified raw cashmere from Mongolia.

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Revised SFA Cashmere Standard

A major highlight this year was the exciting launch of our revised SFA Cashmere Standard. This holistic global standard, published in January 2023, unites the previous regional Codes of Practice under five key principles: Effective Management, Decent Work, Biodiversity & Land Use, Animal Welfare, and Fibre Quality Improvement.

Previously due to come into effect in January 2024, the SFA Standards Team are now in the process of developing and improving the SFA Cashmere Standard through an extended consultation period with v2.0 due to be published in the latter part of 2024. To learn more, please read the SFA Cashmere Standard Statement of Intent here.

Introducing the Rangeland Stewardship Council

The Rangeland Stewardship Council (RSC) gained recognition and support with a series of talks at the annual Rangelands Without Borders Symposium in Idaho, USA, where seven speakers representing international organisations participated to help launch the RSC initiative and garner support from key stakeholders. A dedicated session for RSC was then held later in the year, during the Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) conference in Biella, Italy to launch and provide updates regarding the initiative to the wider natural fibre sector.

Projects in Mongolia & Afghanistan

The SFA Research Team has remained dedicated to our mission of driving positive change in natural fibre value chains by empowering herding communities, promoting responsible sourcing and rewarding more sustainable practices through various projects and programmes.

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In Mongolia this year, our Landscape Verification Project, funded by ISEAL, focused on restoring degraded grasslands and safeguarding biodiversity.

Through engagement with local communities and stakeholders, the primary objective of this initiative was to develop a monitoring framework to measure progress towards environmental targets and achieve conservation goals and implement biodiversity measures.

Expanding our commitment, SFA has announced the start of our USAID-funded project in Afghanistan. As part of this 13-month project, we will be looking to build a programme of work and Country Guidelines for Afghanistan centring around the “One-Health” approach of humans-animals-environment to develop and implement the programme on the ground.

By doing so, we hope to create better social, environmental, and animal welfare support whilst understanding the current issues surrounding the country, as well as building communities and peace through sustainable development and ensuring that no-one is left behind.

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A project of this scale will take some time and the SFA will not be looking to certify any products during this period. The programme aims to reach 5,000 farmers, with a focus on 30% female farmers.

Working Collaboratively Together

In fostering unity across the cashmere supply chain, the SFA orchestrated impactful conferences throughout the year.

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In February, we co-organised the Cashmere Connect conference in Biella, Italy in partnership with Natural Fibre Connect (NFC), the Schneider Group, the Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI), and LVMH. The first of its kind conducted in Europe, the event welcomed stakeholders from every level of the supply chain, from herders to final products, offering insightful discussions on sustainability, engaging workshops, and illuminating factory tours.

In early September, herders convened for the yearly SFA Mongolia conference in Ulaanbaatar, bringing together over 150 in-person attendees from across the country. This unique event was organised by the herders themselves, supported by the SFA and the Ministry of Agriculture and Light Industry of Mongolia (MoFALI). Concluding the event was the highly anticipated Herder Sustainability Awards, a presentation of nominated herders and herder cooperatives celebrating their achievements over the past year across six main award categories.

Towards the end of September, the second edition of the Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) conference brought together a global fibre community of cashmere, mohair, wool, and alpaca in Biella, Italy, with over 350 in-person participants and 1000 virtual attendees. The event focused on a collaboration across sectors with a key aim of providing herder and grower perspectives with a collective mission of a “World with more natural fibres by 2030”.

Moreover, the National Young Herders Conference in Mongolia at the beginning of October witnessed the participation of over 800 young herders.

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Hosted by the Mongolian Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Light Industry (MoFALI), this gathering highlighted the significance of the SFA Cashmere Standard and supply chain in shaping the future of the sector. Through these conferences, SFA continues to play a pivotal role in bringing diverse actors together, promoting sustainability and collaboration.

Continuous Improvement

This year has seen many exciting announcements, from the adoption of a fully segregated Chain of Custody model ensuring 100% of the cashmere used in the end-product is SFA-certified to publishing the Chain of Custody Global Guidelines v3.0 and subsequent updates of v3.1. Public consultation has also opened for our draft Chain of Custody Standard where we are seeking feedback from stakeholders and the public. This process reflects our commitment to transparency and inclusivity – please learn more and participate here.

Following the past two years of collaboration with Conformity Assessment Bodies (CABs), we have made significant strides and developments. This has led us to the recent release of the SFA Assurance and Certification Manual v1.0, where we have refined requirements for CABs.

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As we wrap up an extraordinary year, we are proud of the impacts that we have made, a testament to the collective efforts of our partners, herders, members, and wider communities.

Thank you for joining us on this journey towards a more sustainable future. Here’s to another year of growth, collaboration, and positive change in 2024!

Tamir Bud

SFA COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

20 December 2023

Please note, illustrations have been created using Ai.

SFA Chain of Custody Standard Public Consultation is Now Open

Posted by Katy Edwards

Update: This public consultation has now closed.

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) has now opened public consultation on our draft SFA Chain of Custody Standard. We are seeking feedback on the new proposed draft from all stakeholders and members of the public.

Online Feedback Form

Please support us and provide your feedback on all aspects of the SFA Chain of Custody Standard by clicking on the button below and completing our online feedback form.

All relevant documents can be found at the top of the survey or at the bottom of this article.

Update: This consultation is now closed, thank you to all of those who participated.

Alternatively, if you are unable to complete the online survey for any reason, feel you are unable to participate due to a language barrier or have any other questions, then please do contact us at standards@sustainablefibre.org and we will do our best to accommodate your request.

Draft SFA Chain of Custody Standard & Statement of Intent Documents

Before filling out the survey, we ask that you first read the draft version of the SFA Chain of Custody Standard as well as our Statement of Intent document as it explains in detail why we are doing this work.

Click the buttons below to read these documents, or find them at the top of the online survey where Mongolian and Chinese versions of the Statement of Intent are also available.

Draft SFA Chain of Custody Standard
SFA CoC Standard Statement of Intent

The standard review is being conducted as per the SFA’s Standard Setting Procedure, which follows ISEAL’s code of good practice on Standard Setting. Decisions are made by the Standard Setting and Improvement Committee (SSIC).

Many thanks,

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance

Katy Edwards

SFA MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

Updated: 16 January 2024

Winter Preparation & Feed Management | Field Research

Posted by Katy Edwards

In collaboration with Agricultural Master’s student Alina Haus, from the University of Göttingen in Germany, the SFA initiated a study around the winter preparation and feeding management of certified herder cooperatives. In the summer of 2022, low precipitation rates and the ongoing increase of inflation impeded the usual winter and feed preparation of herders, such as harvesting hay and purchasing concentrated feed. Therefore, this study was carried out to explore opportunities to improve support to affected households and improve the winter preparation for upcoming winters at the herder cooperative level.

The study encompassed four cooperatives and their herder members across two study regions (Galuut Sum in Bayankhongor Aimag and Khulunbuir Sum in Dornod Aimag), who differed in the degradation status of the rangeland. In sum, a total of 21 households were interviewed, two focus group discussions were organized, and a total of 52 feed samples that were collected from state emergency fodder banks and herders were analyzed in the lab to assess the nutrient quality of the feed.

The interviews encompassed preferences for feeding and the quantities supplied, measures taken in advance to prepare for the winter (e. g., selling livestock before the winter, repair and insulation of the winter shed, etc.), as well as demographic aspects. During the focus group discussions, challenges and obstacles during the winter and feed preparations were discussed with herder cooperative leaders and members. Group work then followed to discuss and develop potential solutions at the cooperative level.

The results reveal that households in Galuut Sum faced great obstacles during the winter and feed preparation, and consequently prepared significantly less hay and other feeds than households in Khulunbuir Sum. Also, collaborative actions were implemented poorly on this site, while the cooperative leaders in Khulunbuir Sum organized communal haying events before the onset of the winter.

In Galuut Sum, financial resources for herders and cooperatives were not accessible, and the high prices for feed and fuel led to the reluctant purchase of feed during the winter. In contrast, sufficient pasture productivity in Khulunbuir Sum allowed herders to prepare in advance for winter challenges, and decent infrastructure enabled herders to acquire wheat bran as feed from local mill companies.

Finally, the discussions with cooperative leaders and herder members revealed great potential to provide support to herders at the cooperative level. For instance, feed bulk orders initiated by the cooperative leader could increase the herders’ leverage in pricing negotiations, and the communal installation of storage for meat and feed could reduce individual costs. Further,  cooperative leaders are in charge for communicating the needs of their members to local government and administration to ensure local policies are being developed to support herders and cooperatives. Nevertheless, skills in organizational management and communication of the cooperative leader are prerequisites for the successful implementation of collaborative activities.

With the help of these outcomes, the SFA will provide support to those herders and cooperative leaders who need assistance in the feed acquisition and winter preparation to increase their resilience to future winter hazards and climate change, to strengthen their capacity to adapt and improve management to overcome natural disasters. The study researcher believes that supporting activities in this direction will undoubtedly be an important measure that will greatly encourage the sustainable operation of cooperatives in the longer term.

The SFA is Hiring for a Head of Operations!

Posted by Katy Edwards

We are on the look out for a new Head of Operations to oversee the SFA-wide budgets and ensure that resources are raised and co-ordinated efficiently and effectively. Working with the CEO and leadership team, the successful individual will responsible for developing organisational policies as well as manage the UK office and global operations.

The ideal candidate will have experience of executing operations, systems and process improvement. They will be confident leading change and be a strong communicator.

You can find the full job description as well as other openings at the SFA HERE.

The SFA is Hiring for a Project Manager!

Posted by Katy Edwards

The SFA is looking to hire a Project Manager to establish a scalable cashmere certification programme in Afghanistan that can improve the livelihoods of herding communities and the sustainability of the cashmere supply chain. 

The ideal candidate will have technical and field experience managing sustainable development programs, preferably in the livestock industry.

You can find the full job description as well as other openings at the SFA HERE.

PLEASE NOTE: This position has now been filled.

2022 Highlights

Posted by Katy Edwards

It has been a busy and productive year for the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA), and we are excited to share some of our main highlights with you.

First and foremost, we are pleased to report that we now have 59 members from 11 countries, not including producer groups. In 2022, we made intensive efforts to build capacity for a sustainable cashmere industry at all levels, including training on standard requirements, leadership training, strengthening cooperative management, business management training, and helping channel herder-led policy recommendations to the Mongolian government.

One of the biggest undertakings of the year was the restructuring of our standard system, which involved integrating our three herder level codes of practice into a single, overreaching global standard based on 5 principles for sustainable cashmere. This has helped to create a more cohesive and comprehensive approach to sustainability within the cashmere industry.

As of the end of the year, we have certified 93 herder organizations in Mongolia, covering over 10,000 herder households, as well as 15,000 farms in China. This accounts for over 6 million goats and 720 tonnes of certified raw fibre from Mongolia and 3,234 tonnes of certified raw fibre from China.

There were many other highlights from the year, including the separation of our assurance and certification arm, NEXUS Connect, from the SFA and its establishment as a new, independent organization. We also formed new partnerships with organizations like Natural Fibre Connect, the Mongolian Academy of Sciences, the University of Milan, and more. In addition, we partnered with Khan Bank to offer preferential green loans to certified herders, with 37 cooperatives being selected for green funding. This helps to reduce the burden of high interest rates and debt in herder communities.

The SFA co-founded the new Natural Fibre Connect conference and platform alongside the International Alpaca Association, Mohair South Africa, and Wool Connect. The first conference was held in September and welcomed 1,000 guests from 43 different countries and had an additional 10,000+ Mongolian herders tune in to the live stream. We had 80 speakers discussing 9 main themes and nearly 40 different workshops and demonstrations.

Finally, we have been involved in a number of research projects this year with partner organisations, including the world’s first Life Cycle Assessment of cashmere, a project promoting dryland sustainable landscapes and biodiversity conservation in the Eastern Steppe of Mongolia, and a project looking at the role of supplementary feed in winter risk mitigation in Mongolia.

As we look back on the year, we are proud of the progress we have made and are excited for the opportunities and challenges ahead. We hope you have a happy holiday season and look forward to continuing to work towards a more sustainable future for cashmere in the new year.

Mongolia’s Academy of Science Partnership

Posted by Katy Edwards

This fall, Mongolia’s Academy of Science and the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) signed a memorandum of cooperation. The goal of the collaboration is to assess and certify sustainable wool and cashmere production operations in order to reduce the negative impact of cashmere production on the environment, provide a better environment for the well-being of herd animals, and increase the ability of herders to recover their livelihoods.

Some of the objectives the partnership will focus on are:

Natural Fibre Connect 2022

Posted by Katy Edwards

Natural Fibre Connect Online Conference 2022

Natural Fibre Connect is an online conference taking place on 7-9 September 2022 for the alpaca, cashmere, mohair, and wool industries.

As the effects of climate change and market fluctuations continue to grow, it is more important than ever before to understand the impact on growers and herders at the beginning of our supply chains — their prosperity is vital for safeguarding the future of the sector and making real progress towards our sustainability goals. The virtual event will cover trends, challenges, and innovations within the four industries and how they are impacting growers and herders around the world. In turn, we will look at how the growers and herders themselves are shaping the future of the sector.

The event will welcome over 1000+ guests from around the world, including growers, processors, brokers, manufacturers, brands, NGOs, and government stakeholders invested in the natural fibres sector. As the name of the conference suggests, the focus will be to connect all actors of the supply chain, exchange knowledge and insights and work together toward reaching the Sustainable Development Goals.

The 3 live days are filled with expert speakers, recorded talks, and roundtable discussions aimed at tackling the common challenges of the alpaca, cashmere, mohair, and wool industries.

Attendees will benefit from plenty of networking opportunities including access to the virtual exhibition hall where they can connect with fibre supply chain companies, NGOs, and government organisations invested in making the natural fibre industries more sustainable.

Topics discussed during the three-day conference will be:

The event platform is available in English, Spanish, and Chinese. There will be 2 sessions per day discussing the same topics with different speakers: First session (7:00-10:00 UTC) Second session (14:00-17:00 UTC).

An overview of the schedule can be viewed here: https://woolconnect.gschneider.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Schedule-Natural-Fibre-Connect-2022-1.pdf

More information and tickets about the event can be found here: https://bit.ly/NaturalFibreConnect

COP26 | The SFA meets with the Mongolian Delegation

Posted by Katy Edwards

This past week, the SFA was honoured to meet with the Mongolian delegation for COP26 in Scotland for a tour of Alex Begg’s factory. Alex Begg, a longstanding member of the SFA, is a leading manufacturer of luxury goods and accessories and is committed to sourcing sustainably produced cashmere from Mongolian producers. The delegation’s visit to the factory, and the discussions around climate and land restoration which followed, shows the commitment that the new administration has towards sustainable trade and aligning Mongolia’s international policies on trade and climate change with the goals of the Paris Agreement and the UN’s SDGs. The SFA is looking forward to developing public and private sector partnerships with the support of the new cabinet; these multi-stakeholder partnerships will help to support the Mongolian people towards creating an economy in sustainable cashmere, as well as creating better systems by which to support this new economy.

Mongolian media also attended the tour of Alex Begg’s factory to document the ministers’ visit. Their reporting for the Mongolian public helped to highlight the role that the cashmere sector can have in mitigating the climate crisis and share new information and ideas from the government’s visit. Systemic change will involve participation along every stage of production and will require the support of a committed government and strong partnerships.

The SFA’s holistic approach to sustainable cashmere is a good example of what is required to make lasting and widespread change in this industry. It requires the cooperation of the whole supply chain and the support of the global market to address issues of land management, animal welfare, clean fibre processing and herder livelihoods. It is through economic incentives that we will see change on the ground as a market-led approach acknowledges the important connection between a thriving economy and environmental impact.

As the SFA continues to grow and expand, we look forward to future opportunities to connect with the Mongolian cabinet and further develop the relationship and ideas introduced at COP26 that promise a better future for cashmere. 

The Sustainable Cashmere Standard Public Consultation is Now Open

Posted by Katy Edwards

SFA first published codes of practice for rangeland stewardship, animal husbandry, and clean fibre processing. The focus for each of these is on continuous improvement with certification at three award levels to reflect compliance. 

In 2022 the SFA is proposing consolidating into the Sustainable Cashmere Standard, a performance-based, outcome-oriented worldwide standard. The Principles and Criteria focus on the production of cashmere in a way that is measurably better for animals, the environment, and herding communities. 

The SCS Principles are the essential rules or elements of environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable cashmere production, and the Criteria provide the means of judging whether or not a Principle has been fulfilled. 

To find our more, visit our website for more details. 

Sustainable Fibre Alliance Becomes an ISEAL Community Member

Posted by Katy Edwards

ISEAL is pleased to welcome the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) into the ISEAL community as an ISEAL Community Member. We are excited to learn from their experience at implementing a standard at a landscape level, and engaging with them to support their improvement over time.

ISEAL members are sustainability systems and accreditation bodies dedicated to delivering benefits for people and planet. They are committed to continually improving their systems and impacts through learning and innovation; collaborating with stakeholders and peers; and are transparent and truthful about how their systems work and how they measure their impacts.

In becoming an ISEAL Community Member, SFA joins a growing number of well-respected sustainability systems that are driving positive social and environmental change across multiple sectors. SFA will be working alongside these mission-driven sustainability organisations to continuously improve the effectiveness of their systems and demonstrate impact.

Further to the recommendation from the ISEAL Membership Committee, and ISEAL Board approval, ISEAL’s Executive Director Karin Kreider said, “I am very pleased to welcome the Sustainable Fibre Alliance to the ISEAL community! And, excited that we now have a member whose primary focus is the cashmere sector and working in Mongolia. They provide an important contribution to the challenges of textile production and their field-based work contributes to landscape-based approaches — a welcome addition to the ISEAL learning community.”

Una Jones, CEO & Founder of SFA commented that, “Being an ISEAL community member is a reflection of how committed the SFA is to improving our standard system and its requirements and processes. We are looking forward to learning from other standard holding bodies and sharing best practices and innovative approaches for tackling sustainability challenges”.

ISEAL encourages any organisation developing or operating a sustainability system with a multi-stakeholder approach and a commitment to credible practices to consider joining ISEAL. 

Find out more on the ISEAL membership page.

About ISEAL

ISEAL is the global membership organisation for ambitious, collaborative and transparent sustainability systems. We’re driving collective efforts to tackle the most pressing sustainability issues and create a world where markets are a force for good.

Joining ISEAL’s learning community helps sustainability systems and their partners to deliver real, lasting, positive change. Our Community Members are sustainability standards and similar systems that collaborate to scale and demonstrate positive impact. Our Code Compliant members go further, adhering to our Codes of Good Practice – a globally recognised framework for best practice.

Find out more about our members: www.isealalliance.org

Explore evidence on the impacts of sustainability systems: www.evidensia.eco

Register your interest in our Mongolia Chain of Custody

Posted by Katy Edwards

Interested in purchasing SFA Certified Cashmere from Mongolia this year? Register your interest HERE by April 12 and we will get back to you with more information and the official participant forms.

Why is it important for brands and retailers to commit to Chain of Custody? Committing to the purchase of SFA Certified fibre helps ensure the participation of herders and processors by showing demand for certified cashmere. This in turn increases the amount of certified fibre on the market and supports a more sustainable cashmere supply chain.

Registration for our Mongolia Chain of Custody requires a £500 fee which helps support the SFA’s Chain of Custody operations. While the SFA is not a broker, we will help connect you to certified sellers as well as support you with product and marketing claims.

For questions, contact Gunchi Tumur at gunchinmaa.tumur@sustainablefibre.org

Save the Date – Sustainability in the Cashmere Sector Conference 2021

Posted by Katy Edwards

This September the SFA will be hosting a two part conference to explore Sustainability in the Cashmere Sector. Join us from 8-11th of September for our Ulaanbaatar Conference and from 14-16th for our Virtual Conference.

Registration is now open and you can find more information on our event website: https://conference.sustainablefibre.org/

If you are interested in becoming a sponsor or speaker, please contact Katy Edwards: katy.edwards@sustainablefibre.org

Round Two of Public Consultation on SFA-ICCAW Cashmere Goat Welfare Code of Practice is Now Open…

Posted by Katy Edwards

Round two of the Public Consultation for the joint SFA-ICCAW Code of Practice development is now open for feedback until 12pm on 15th February 2021. More information can be found here.

Round Two of Public Consultation on Clean Fibre Processing (review) is now open…

Posted by Katy Edwards

Round two of the Clean Fibre Processing Code of Practice review is now open until 31st January 2021 for your feedback. More information can be found here.

Nomadic Herders meet with luxury cashmere brands

Posted by Katy Edwards

SFA herders met online with representatives of leading luxury brands to discuss the major issues affecting the cashmere sector this year, including the impact of Covid-19, this summer’s drought, fibre demand and sustainability practices. The aim of the meetings was to galvanise collective action in building and promoting a competitive and sustainable cashmere sector in Mongolia.

The herders, who have all been accredited against the SFA Codes of Practice, had the opportunity to share their efforts in rangeland protection and animal welfare and their focus on improving livestock quality over quantity. In the Bayarkhongor region the urgency to reduce the number of livestock and improve the rangeland conditions has been brought into sharp focus with the threat of a dzud this year (where extreme weather following a poor summer results in livestock not being able to access enough grass).

The SFA collaborated with the UNDP’s Mongolian Sustainable Cashmere Platform (MSCP), who initiated the meetings. They also arranged meetings with other sustainability initiatives including the NFPUG, ENSURE and Green Gold. 

This was the first in a series of these meetings between produces and brands, the next will be on the 20th November, if you would like to attend, or would like us to pose a question on your behalf then register on http://sustainablecashmereplatform.com/ – it’s certainly not your typical zoom meeting!

Herder training in Inner Mongolia begins!

Posted by Katy Edwards


In September, an on-going series of herder training began in the joint SFA x ICCAW Code of Practice in Cashmere Goat Welfare. The training began in Erdos City and the Yingen Sumu area of Inner Mongolia and was followed by interviews and the inspection of farms of the Ordos Cashmere Group, which were individually assessed on their animal welfare standards. 

In the training, Mr Ayoshi Yongxi, the president of ICCAW, explains the basic principles of animal welfare and emphasises the importance of animal welfare of cashmere goats to the international market. The training sessions are delivered by researchers and professors from the Inner Mongolia Agricultural University.  

The topics covered include: 

Herders Receive Business Development Training

Posted by Katy Edwards

As part of the SFA’s Covid-19 Action Plan, a two-day Business Development Training for Herding Organisations has been held this week in Ulaanbaatar. The aim was to develop business management capacity for herder organisations and cooperatives to trade in raw materials and to increase governance at community organisational level.

A key focus of the SFA’s Covid-19 Action Plan is to reduce the economic vulnerability of herders through increasing economic literacy and their business development training.

The training was well attended with 50 participants, including 39 Herding Organisations Leaders from 35 soums across 10 provinces.

The training was delivered by speakers from the SFA, the Export Development Programme, the Employment Promotion Project and Mandakh Universities and topics included:

Proposal for an ‘International Year of Rangelands & Pastoralists’

Posted by Katy Edwards

Grasslands are fundamental to the cashmere supply chain and the Mongolian government is proposing an International Year of Rangelands and Pastoralists. Here’s a short film about pastoralists around the world and their importance. Or visit https://iyrp.info/ to find out more about the initiative.

Public Consultation on Clean Fibre Processing (review) is now open…

Posted by Katy Edwards

The public consultation on the review of The Clean Fibre Processing Code of Practice is open until September 30th. Click here to access the public summary and relevant documents.

Public Consultation on SFA x ICCAW Goat Welfare Code of Practice now open…

Posted by Katy Edwards

The first round of public consultation is now open until the 16th October please follow the link for the public summary.

Good Herding Podcasts

Posted by Katy Edwards

May 2020

This month the SFA Mongolia team has released the first podcast in a series on good herding practices, during cashmere season. This is just one in a series of new ways that the SFA in Mongolia are engaging with herders, which includes videos, a TV series with Khan Bank and handbooks. All of these training materials will be expanded in response to COVID restrictions.

The Chain of Custody has started!

Posted by Katy Edwards

SFA Chain of Custody Standard Update

November 2023

The SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) has now opened public consultation on our draft SFA Chain of Custody Standard. We are seeking feedback on the new proposed draft from all stakeholders and members of the public.

For more information and to take part in the public consultation, please visit our news article.

April 2020

The bags have been stamped, the labels have been printed and for the first time, we are about to trace cashmere fibre from the herders through the entire supply chain to the shop floor. Participating companies have been announced in the Chain of Custody pathways. This cashmere season, SFA herding communities have been preparing their fibre by colour and quality. Herding communities in the Ovorkhangai and South Gobi regions have just received their SFA Transaction Certificates and are the first step in our chain of custody pilot.

SFA X ICCAW Inner Mongolia Collaboration

Posted by Katy Edwards

SFA is proud to announce that we have signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the International Cooperation Committee on Animal Welfare (ICCAW) to cooperate in jointly developing and implementing a joint Code of Practice for accreditation of animal welfare and environmental sustainability of cashmere production in China. The Code of Practice will provide specific guidance for herding families and companies on how to implement ICCAW’s Cashmere Goat Farm Animal Welfare Requirements and will be implementable within SFA’s Sustainable Cashmere Standard.

Covid-19 Action Plan

Posted by Katy Edwards

The economic impacts of Covid-19 on herding families are considerable and concerning. The fall in demand for cashmere caused a fall of up to 60% (compared to last year’s average price of raw cashmere). For the majority of herders, this is devastating since cashmere is their main or only income. The fall in income will not only impact their own economic security and wellbeing but the welfare of their animals. The SFA surveyed its herders this May and the responses indicate that reduced incomes and loan repayments will impact animal welfare in three ways:

  1. Fewer animals will be vaccinated against disease
  1. Lack of funds for animal feed
  1. Lack of funds for maintaining winter shelters

Over the past five years, the SFA has worked with herding communities to promote the adoption of sustainable herding practices, which contributes to building resilience in their own herding livelihoods. Covid-19 has only highlighted the importance of local networks and support systems, access to knowledge, flexibility and mobility, innovative herding skills and use of reserve pastures in helping herding communities cope with external shocks. Whether faced with a global pandemic or climatic disaster, we can help herders become better prepared for these shocks, mitigate their impacts and recover from more quickly.

In response to Covid-19 the SFA set up a Covid-19 Working Group where we and our members identified where we can add new activities in order to target our efforts where they are most needed responding to the two core goals of :

Reducing economic vulnerability of Mongolian herding communities

Building capacity for responsible fibre production.

The recommendations of the SFA Covid-19 Working Group regarding our key areas of action are as follows:

  1. Explore what opportunities herding families and communities have to reduce their reliance on the cashmere fibre crop.
  1. Develop a programme of support to herders that encourages a communal approach to dealing with financial/environmental shocks, animal welfare management and disaster response.
  1. Develop an incentive mechanism to encourage and reward good practice. 
  1. Work with other agencies and NGOs to agree joint action to improve the quality of Mongolian cashmere fibre quality, breeding or other related programmes.
  1. Extend the chain of custody model to allow a greater number of herders and processors to benefit from market access and price premiums and explore the potential to add further value through herder-level sorting of raw fibre.

Download the full SFA Covid-19 Action Plan here.