Our Story

HOW WE GOT HERE

Over the course of 10 years, the SFA has grown from a concept into the world’s first global organisation for cashmere sustainability, with our training and certification programme able to reach over 160,000 herders in Mongolia and China. Our two founders grew up in the Mongolian countryside and saw first-hand how climate change and overgrazing were impacting the land. Riverbeds were drying up, grasslands were turning to desert, and the families that once thrived in this environment faced a growing struggle. The Sustainable Fibre Alliance grew from their desire for a lasting, market-based and scalable solution for protecting Mongolia’s rich rangelands and pastoral culture for future generations.

Johnstons of Elgin and Burberry are two of our founding members, helping to establish the SFA as a reputable and impactful organisation within the fashion industry. Scroll through the timelines below to learn more about our story.

2015-16

  • The SFA's two founders, Una Jones and Batkhishig Baival developed the framework and mission for the SFA.
  • The SFA is established with support from Johnstons of Elgin, Burberry and Kering Group.
  • Alison Rodwell joins as SFA Board Chair.
  • The SFA develops its Rangeland Stewardship and Animal Husbandry Codes of Practice.
  • Following stakeholder consultation, training materials are developed to support the Codes of Practice.
  • The SFA Board is joined by Andreas Wilkes and Ruchira Joshi.

2017

  • The SFA Rangeland Stewardship and Animal Husbandry Codes of Practice are adopted by 8 herder organisations, reaching 346 herder households from 7 regions across Mongolia.
  • The SFA's Science and Technical Committee (STC) is established, made up of respected scientists and practitioners in the field of conservation and pasture management.
  • The first international SFA conference is held in Ulaanbaatar and attended by 160 delegates from 12 countries.
  • Funding is secured from the British Foreign and Common Wealth Office.

2018

  • First certifications against the SFA Rangeland Stewardship and Animal Husbandry Codes of Practice.
  • 48 rangeland managers trained and recruited.
  • Results Reporting Framework developed.
  • Khan Bank offers preferential loan rates to registered herders.
  • Launch of the Johnstons of Elgin Young Herder Training Programme.
  • The SFA's first Sustainability Awards take place.
  • The programme reaches 3,843 herder households from 11 provinces across Mongolia.
  • Over 300,000 cashmere goats produce 75 tonnes of certified fibre.

2019

  • Scoping mission to the Inner Mongolian Autonomous Region of China to assess expansion into the region.
  • Development of the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Code of Practice.
  • The SFA takes part in the first blockchain pilot for cashmere traceability.

2020

  • The SFA's Chain of Custody pilot traces 90 tonnes of raw fibre through the cashmere supply chain.
  • Khanbogd Cashmere is the first processor to be accredited against the SFA Clean Fibre Processing Code of Practice.
  • SFA x ICCAW Cashmere Goat Welfare Code of Practice is launched across China.
  • SFA Covid Action Plan delivered to help herders and supply chain actors through the pandemic.

2021

  • The SFA becomes an ISEAL Community Member.
  • SFA Membership reaches over 50 companies.
  • The SFA helps launch an LCA project to estimate the carbon impact of cashmere production and processing.
  • Over 1,500 tonnes of certified fibre traced through the SFA's Chain of Custody.
  • First SFA-certified hangtags displaying in stores in Mongolia and Europe.

2022

  • Reach grows to 15,000 farms in China and almost 100 herder organisations of over 16,000 herder households in Mongolia.
  • Natural Fibre Connect partnership brings together the cashmere, alpaca, mohair and wool sectors.
  • Renewed MOU with ICCAW and CCMI.
  • New MOU with the Mongolian Academy of Sciences for monitoring and evaluation.
  • Launch of the global SFA Cashmere Standard.
  • Minimum content of certified fibre in finished products for claims raised to 100%.
  • Low-interest loans offered to certified  herders by Khan Bank in Mongolia.

2023

  • Introduction to the Rangeland Stewardship Council.
  • SFA Cashmere Connect conference held in Biella, Italy.
  • 13-month SFA and USAID-funded project launches, to support herding communities in Afghanistan.
  • Second-annual Natural Fibre Connect conference brought together over 1,350 in-person and online participants from across the natural fibre sectors.
  • Introduction of the SFA Volume-Based Fee.
  • Draft SFA Chain of Custody Standard opens for public consultation.
  • SFA Cashmere Standard Statement of Intent published for v2.0