15th January 2026
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) is a UK-registered charity that operates a voluntary sustainability system for the global cashmere supply chain. Its primary beneficiaries are cashmere herders and indigenous herding communities, particularly in Mongolia and Inner Mongolia, and its standards are designed to support improved animal welfare, environmental stewardship, and herder livelihoods over time through voluntary participation and continuous improvement.
The SFA operates voluntary standards, and its certification framework and implementation systems have evolved and continue to evolve over time. Following internal monitoring work undertaken in 2024, the SFA identified weaknesses in the implementation of elements of its certification system during the period 2022-2024. In particular, some Mongolian cashmere was sold as ‘SFA Certified’ at a time when the environmental requirements linked to the SFA Rangeland Stewardship Code of Practice (referred to as C002) had not been fully audited for all herding organisations, despite being an intended component of certification in Mongolia. Please note that the previously separated SFA Codes of Practice have since been unified within the SFA Animal Fibre Standard, which became effective in June 2025.
Once these issues were identified, the SFA Board commissioned an independent external investigation by a specialist in voluntary sustainability standards systems. The investigation reviewed documentation, governance, certification processes, and data management across the relevant period. The review found no evidence of wrongdoing, fraud, or deliberate misrepresentation by SFA staff, auditors, certification bodies, or supply chain partners. Rather, these temporary issues arose due to a combination of factors, including misinterpretation of how voluntary standards requirements should be applied and the introduction of necessary derogations during COVID-19 that were incorrectly allowed to continue after the pandemic.
The investigation confirmed that, while some fibre was not fully audited through conformity assessment requirements at the time of sale, there was no evidence that these gaps resulted in negative sustainability outcomes on the ground. On this basis, no previously certified fibre has been decertified. The SFA is now decisively implementing a comprehensive action plan, including the report recommendations, aligned with its ongoing commitment to continuous improvement.
On 10th December 2025, the SFA communicated a summary of the issues, investigation findings, and planned actions to SFA Members, including brand and retail stakeholders, through two formal Members’ Meetings and subsequent email communication, as well as direct conversations with key international buyers. Specific updates to SFA Standards or guidance resulting from the insights from this review will be implemented over the coming months; relevant materials for consultation will be shared on the SFA website and subject to technical review with relevant partners.
This work is ongoing and forms part of a broader programme to consolidate systems, further strengthen oversight, and ensure that the SFA’s voluntary sustainability framework remains robust, credible, and fit for purpose in improving herder livelihoods, animal welfare, and environmental stewardship.